Rus News Journal

A.Makarevich, M.Garber “ Man`s drinks “

This book - some kind of research of an essence alcoholic vozlijany which give the greatest pleasure - approximately   between the second and third wine-glass as Andrey Makarevich has noted. Any decent feast does not do without good wine, either vodka, or whisky … It can be any drink, beginning from tequila, and finishing moonshine. The main thing that the company was approaching.

In life of each person there is a set of the entertaining stories connected with feasts. In this book Andrey Makarevich shares such stories. Ironic comments of the known psychiatrist and expert in narcology Mark Garbera consider “ process vypivanija “ from the most various points of view: social, cultural, creative, psychological.


Time promised Abu - it is necessary to tell. I want only that this history has been regarded not as alcoholic bajka (“ And here still there was a case: have got drunk and …) and as an example of unexpected influence on an organism hitherto an unknown drink. In general, as the scientific certificate.

There was this history in the summer of year, likely, seventy eighth. I already told, how sometimes absolutely unexpectedly poor counters of the Soviet wine shops were filled with any unprecedented overseas product. Interesting: never it was the drink universal, world renowned, will tell - “ Johnny Walker “ or gin “ Gordons “. As a rule, threw out something absolutely Martian.

“ Abu Simbelom “ balm in the big big-bellied dark bottle was called. Made by the unknown country. I and now have no the slightest ideas about it. Like something Arabian. On the other hand unless Arabs make alcohol? In general, the devil only knows. Total amount (about litre), the maximum strong hold (I remember, more than forty degrees) and the moderate price (on - to mine, roubles eight) have served its purpose - I this bottle has bought. Besides in me already then the spirit of the researcher wandered. Has bought and has forgotten. For a short while.

In couple of days we had a session, probably, it has passed successfully therefore we have decently accepted (for certain port) and have appeared with Margulis in my tiny flat on the Komsomol prospectus. The flat left a balcony in a court yard and it was a place where we constantly rehearsed, listened to Beatles, composed, drank and argued. Gerlov at arm`s length it has not appeared, we have drunk up port and have understood that to us so it is good that continuation is necessary. Short June night came to an end, behind windows dawned, there was no place to run. And here I have remembered about “ Abu Simbel “. Before to try, we have attentively studied a label. The label promised infusion on not less than forty curative grasses. Excited, we have poured a brown viscous liquid on glasses. On taste of Abu Simbel it has appeared bitterish, fragrant and in general not opposite. I do not remember, how we have drunk up a bottle, but we have drunk up it - differently in those days simply could not occur.

there was an improbable Further. We have sobered up! The head was cleared up, portvejnovaja weight has left, in movements has appeared zakonchennos, accuracy and grace. And the pleasure anywhere has not got to - opposite, she voskipela and demanded actions.

We left on a balcony. Below under us the small garden, garages of our co-operative society, further - the building exhibition which has been wrapped up with greens, behind it - the Moskva River, on that coast - Neskuchniy Garden and already behind it - slowly rising sun settled down. In general, to both of us it is insuperable it wanted on this beauty popisat. The decision has been called, I repeat, not intoxication in banal sense of this word. Simply the world has opened to us under any new, unprecedented earlier a corner, and this vision demanded reciprocal actions. Later I tried to explain the logician of our acts - and could not. But during that moment of doubts did not arise - we have felt ourselves in other reality living under other laws. To carry out the conceived stirred a balcony handrail - they were just at that height, centimetre in centimetre. On a balcony many years stood ancient Viennese stuls gnutymi legs and without a seat - I do not remember, on what dustbin I have picked up it, something it was pleasant to me. It was absolutely clear that there was it here specially for the sake of this moment and long this moment was waited.
both of us have risen on a chair - and all has turned out! The kind of two idiots standing on a balcony on a chair without a seat with unbuttoned trousers in the first beams of a rising sun has amused us definitively. I never tested such inflow of positive energy. We slezli from a chair also have understood that the mission it has executed also the further existence on the Earth for it henceforth senselessly. Therefore the chair has departed downwards. It flied strictly vertically, in the face of decreasing in sizes, and having hit about asphalt, with a dry crash has scattered on improbably small slices - as a meteorite. It was improbably beautiful and was completely entered in a picture of the world surrounding us. Therefore after a chair downwards poletelipredmety, making contents of my refrigerator. Is better jars with mayonnaise, mustard and jam were torn - they scattered as pomegranates and left on asphalt and roofs of garages multi-coloured multifinal stars.

When I have seen that Margulis drags to an exit on a balcony my radio-gramophone “ the Concordance “ I have a little come round. “ the concordance “ Was huge, size from the person, on four varnish legs, comprised the lamp receiver and a player and, of course, it would bang in a fantastic way, but it it was exclusively a pity. I have a little done some fighting with Margulis, have beaten off “ the Concordance “ we have hardly put it into place and have unexpectedly calmed down. The world gradually got former habitual outlines and I vaguely felt that good our adventure will not come to an end. We have laid down on a sofa and have fallen asleep, having embraced.

we Have woken up from loud shouts on a staircase. The motorists of our co-operative society shaken by night act of terrorism, have come to sort out relations with my parents. Also has rescued us a miracle. The apartment of parents was in the neighbourhood with mine, but parents there were not - they lived in the country, and the microbiologist temporarily lived in apartment from Birobidzhan to which mum reviewed the dissertation. It has opened a door, has understood nothing, but having caught in intonations atoljubitelej aggression, there and then has just in case lifted a Jewish problem, and tenants in confusion have receded. To us to call they have not guessed, and we have been rescued.

That`s all. I can add that in the morning we to my amazement have not tested the slightest torments of a hang-over, and on a broader scale all occurring reminded at night easy narcotic trip more likely. To balm “ Abu Simbel “ we were not converted any more - just in case. And soon it on a broader scale has disappeared from sale and from our life for ever.

* * *

Having read Andrey Makarevicha`s reminiscence about Abu - Simbele could not understand in any way why the known traveller did not know a balm origin. After all Abu - Simbel one of the famous monuments of Egypt. In a rock on the western coast of Nile two temples are cut: big - in honour of Ramzesa II and small - in honour of its first wife Nofretari.

Abu - Simbel is translated as the father of bread and there are in Nubia of 280 km to the south of Aswan.

it seems To me, I ponjalv than the reason, all - taki And. M not overland, but the old salt and that is in depth of a land, should be truly grandiose to draw its attention. And Nile - the river muddy, there on - chelovecheski and not zanyrnesh so around Red sea it is possible and to stop.

Now actually about Abu - Simbele as about balm, it “ Woman Sima “. At capacity of 0,83 litres and strong holds of 43 degrees the bottle cost 5 roubles. Thus, at bolshem volume and a strong hold, the price bylasopostavima with the vodka price.

On a broader scale - that balm did not intend for edinorazovogo the uses by group in 3 persons, and has been calculated on use according to the noble name - gradually, as an additive to coffee or tea, and even on a table spoon in kachestvetonizirujushchego a drink. The people began to die out. There was an introduction: “ Who drinks Arabian Abu, that will terminate the life in a coffin “.

And in Arkhangelsk the name deciphered so: Arkhangelsk will be destroyed - (further there were names of disctricts of the city) Solombala, Isakogorka, Majmaksa, Bakaritsa, Economy, Papominka.

Utter annihilation does not happen. The price for Abu - Simbel have lifted to 10 roubles and the economy has turned over towards the checked up white grain wine. (travinektar. ru)

And on a broader scale - that balm is krepkoalkogolnyj a drink on osnovenastoev curative grasses, korenev, fruits, various essence. Abundant of these natural components is given to balm by dark colour, aroma and the sated taste.

There is a great variety of balms. In Egypt essence and aromas was widely applied. Among the most known - myrrh - odorous pitch of the trees growing on coast of Red sea, concerning family burzerovyh and an incense - the pitches received from various vidovladannika.

Aromas were formed at heating, voskurivanii pitches. From here, by the way, the term “ perfumery “ (“per - fumum” - through a smoke).

the Ancient word aroma - on indo - Aryan means a wind, a smoke. Aromatic substances it is added in solutions, butters.

Spirits as we know, the first the Arabian scientific alchemists have received. Having found out ability of these chemical soedinenijsohranjat taste and aroma of plants, they used spirit for preparation of medical tinctures and balms.

Alchemists considered that essence - soul of plants.

Abu - Simbel - a worthy product of ancient knowledge, and the spirit bearing an extract from many grasses - display of moderation of Egypt in observance of Islamic norms.

Stories with tequila

With Iron Curtain falling (eternal thanks Michael Sergeevichu!) us sshib from feet the information stream which has rushed from every corner of the globe. Has not done without disappointments: the cook - kola as the classic has noticed, it has appeared usual lemonade, and a drink with the magic name “ an orangeade “ - orange vodichkoj. (With koloj if to be exact, we have got acquainted earlier - in 1975 in Novorossisk has earned factory domestic pepsi - koly, and it all the same was abruptly - to bring to Moscow in a gift from the south not a basket with fruit, and a box pepsi! Or to mix warm vodka (and whence in the summer in the south the cold?) With warm koloj to stir up properly and to wave a volley - uh, took away! Now it is all looks wildishly but if to remember, what kilometre turns stood in the first “ McDonald`s “ opened in Moscow on a Pushkin Square and as rich Georgians arrived from Tbilisi in “ McDonald`s “ to have dinner - a steepness limit! - that you understand: yes is not present, it`s OK. Quickly we get used. We adapt, as professor Garber would tell.)

And before - yes is not present, bars, of course, already were. For example, on just constructed Kalininsky prospectus (nowadays New Arbat) - “ October “ “ the Blizzard “ (in common people “ the Broom “), a little in the street Bitter (that is on Sritu, nowadays Tver). But poured there exclusively cocktails - the pathos, expensive and senseless rubbish consisting of a mix of domestic alcoholic drinks. A cocktail “ Champagne - kobler “ (nazvanitse!) - The Soviet champagne, the Soviet liquor, ice. Rouble fifty seven copecks. A cocktail “ Anniversary “ (well it is natural - what else?) - cognac with liquor and floating vishenkoj. A liqueur glass gramme hundred. Rouble eighty two. Yes for this money it was possible to exult all the evening long with the fire extinguisher of delightful port! Therefore bars used in the unusual cases - when, say, it was necessary ohmurit thinking girl any many about. (In a province the bar culture got absolutely freakish outlines those years. In the eightieth year in the city of Donetsk I have been shaken by a cocktail “ Robinzon “ offered in
a bar of a city dining room is there was a unique cocktail in bar assortment, its components in the pure state were not released. Prepare! Vodka - fifty gramme, port “ caucasus “ - hundred fifty gramme, ice. No, these people not to defeat!)

And behind the back of the barman rose and batteries of overseas bottles - gin, whisky, Martini … sparkled But it there was a scenery, decorating. Also has been poured in these bottles tinted vodichka or tea (some years ago I have suddenly seen the same picture in wild Mozambique, and has already shuddered - I have already forgotten as it looked!) Empty firm bottles the barman took or bought from the happy friend - the barman working in a bar “ Intourist “. It were special bars in special hostels where lodged foreign visitors, and there - that all was the present - but for currency. And the simple Soviet citizen, in this bar come, could end badly evening - in the nearest branch. And could and sit down - presence of currency at the Soviet citizen was punished by corresponding article of the criminal code. And after all pretended to be foreigners, and came, risking fairly - draught of the person for the perfect is ineradicable! And the foreign bottle, even empty, besides the natural beauty, still bore in itself inexplicable magic - the message from another, a free world! Therefore in
to the Soviet apartment if such bottle by miracle got to its inhabitants, it did not throw out, and put on a case - as an ornament. No, I believe that gods arrived to us from other planets. And from their garbage people have done sacred relics and talismans.

There were, of course, at the Soviet power inexplicable and unexpected quirks - that suddenly in the middle of deaf persons of the seventieth was thrown out in all shops, that is “ Epicures “ the Italian Vermouth - “ the Bark “ “ Gancha “ almost “ Martini scrub “ … Certainly while the people have wiped eyes, the miracle has already come to an end, but we, young and brisk, were in time few times nadratsja it to madness, and some days then with pleasure belched fragrant, foreign. That suddenly was on counters to anybody unknown balm “ Abu Simbel “ - a drink of the unknown country, the animal strong hold, the comprehensible price and with absolutely unpredictable result of action. It merits the separate story, but - later. That suddenly in a city of Baku, then still Soviet, in hostel, where a vein “ the Time machine “ the bar " was found out; Intourist “ But - for roubles! With the present gin! And I, being thrilled with permissiveness, has drunk in the face of the amazed barman nine portions gin - tonic then has run for other actors, and we have not stopped, while the gin stock in a bar has not run low. That …

But in eighty seventh became possible vsyoi at once. Sacred and naive time of opening! I will tell to you about tequila.

Tequila has appeared in the country of two stamps - “ Olmega “ and “ Sauza “ both in a silver and gold variant. Musicians, of course, on it have snatched. Besides an aura fate - n - rollnogo a drink it had weight of worthiness - unequivocally amused, that is inserted, did not demand appetizer, and sacramental of acceptance - salt - tequila - a lemon - was new and exotic. A lack tequila had two: it categorically could not be mixed with other drinks, and it was found out next morning. But also in itself it had very sharp quantitative barrier. That is, say, nine liqueur glasses well, and ten - already death. Too next morning - long and tormenting.

Approximately at this time I was in sea cruise with group of actors. It was such suddenly begun and as suddenly ended reorganisation craze - all tourist agencies invited actors in cruise zabesplatno, “ for a box and a trough “. The actor for it gave pair of concerts for having a rest onboard and on a broader scale ministered a bait - “ Want to go to Turkey with Natasha KorolyovOh? “ to allure, on - to mine, especially it was not necessary - the people lomanulsja in close cheap abroad. Actually, also these steamships went to Turkey and sometimes to Greece - and all. In the boundless Istanbul market and actors and having a rest typed cheap barahla, and all rest of the time - there and back - drank. And what to do by a steamship? To read, a leah that?

In one of bars I have found out tequila and the glass was going to wave. Behind this employment I was found by Volodja Vinokur. “ What do you do it? “ - he was surprised, seeing as I prepare for reception - I fill salt in a proper place, I take a lemon segment. I have devoted it in ordinance tekiloupotreblenija. Volodja, the person cheerful, kind and drinking, has desired immediately to try. Has tried - and has admired. There are such people, to leave from which it is impossible, while they will not give a weak point. I have thought suddenly, when have understood that we with Volodej finish the second bottle. Having made sharp unexpected movement, I have escaped from its embraces, have easily reached a cabin and without adventures have fallen asleep.

my Morning was awful. I will not compete with Michael Afanasevichem Bulgakov in the description of a hungover syndrome. I will notice only that unlike Styopy Lihodeeva I did not stir vodka with port, and used the one and only product. And on a broader scale to a hang-over it is not inclined and I have in this respect the extremely hardy organism.

On a deck shot from a gun on flying clay plateaus. I have remembered that yesterday I very much wanted to do some shooting and even have registered in participants. Today it was impossible even to think of it - I or has dropped a gun for a board, or somebody has accidentally killed. A steamship slightly shook, and it aggravated a situation. In a mouth sand creaked. With thoughts about liquid I have crawled to restaurant where the breakfast just began. A minute later cheerful ruddy Vinokur with a tequila bottle in a hand there has easily entered - it at all has not wounded, and he has very much fallen in love with this drink.

After this history I some years did not come nearer to tequila - light a wedge eventually has not converged - and the following our meeting has taken place already in the early nineties in small southern American small town Albukerk - almost on border with Mexico. This small town is remarkable that once a year there takes place grandiose international festival of balloons. And it is in turn called by that such festival demands absolute calm. One sphere basically can fly up at an easy breeze (though also it is undesirable) but when simultaneous signal to start to one thousand huge spheres is given - the full calm is necessary. And places such on the Earth, it appears, very little. You only present - the festival appears, participants and visitors from every corner of the globe gather, carry with itself spheres - heavy, fragile and very expensive luggage, and the day before since morning the easy breeze - and everything starts to blow, the festival is up the spout. Albukerk in this sense it is unique. It lies in a valley from different directions surrounded with low mounts. Probably, it even huge ancient kr
ater. At a dawn in a valley it is improbably silent. And even sdes couple of days from seven festival start did not resolve - I did not feel the slightest whiff, and spheres - felt. Has invited us to festival Stasik Namin - me with a film crew and Yury Aleksandrovicha Senkevich, which I differently as “ uncle Jura “ I can not name, and, believe, anything except respect and love behind it it is not covered. Stasik promised prokatit us on the sphere in the form of the Beatles Yellow Submarine.

we Gathered in small town from different places - I any more do not remember why. We went with the operator by the car - very long, on absolutely wild prairie. Judging by a map, Albukerk already davnodolzhen bylpokazatsja, and it was not and was not, and I was afraid that we have gone astray. At last on horizon there were hills, then they were moved apart also we have driven in small town. Neither the counter car, nor the pedestrian in the street. The middle of day. I at all did not know that there are such deserted small towns. In half an hour of wandering on small streets we have found benzozapravku, and on it the live person. I have asked it where there is our hostel (“ the Grandee - hotel “ certainly!) . It has scratched a head and has told: “ It where - that in the New city, the sir. I can not tell more precisely - I there was only once with the father at fair many years ago. “ “ and a leah far to the New city? “ - I have asked, expecting everything. “ miles one and a half directly on road “ - there was an answer.

We have again moved on deserted street. I felt myself got to a wild fantastic film - on memory climbed “ Children of corn “. Minutes through five we have really buried in a two-storeyed structure with the haughty name “ the Grandee - hotel “. On the contrary through road the signboard " burnt; Tequila - a bar “. Happy with that our travel so quickly also has successfully ended, I have gone directly there.

In a bar, as well as everywhere, there was no person, except the barman behind a rack. I went to a rack, the barman looked me in the face - silently. It was that, in what the American hippies who have not changed to ideals after thirty years - an improbable hat, a grey hair to a belt turn, a beard with a plait and twisted nonsenses in it - all as is necessary. “ the Sir? “ - he has asked quietly. The sensation of unreality of an event amplified. “ tequilas “ - oboronil I as am possible more carelessly. “ which, the sir? “ - the bearded man has said. Behind his back the wall of bottles settled down. All it was tequila, but any acquaintance - “ Olmegi “ “ Sauzy “ I have not seen, how much did not peer. The pause became indecent. And then I, having attacked a throat to own complexes, has fairly told that has arrived from apart and just, and that it thereupon itself would recommend to me in such situation. “ it depends on your plans for evening, the sir “ - the barman has said. “ What would you want - to get drunk slightly, or, on the contrary, to sober up, or to take off weariness after road and vzbo
dritsja, or, maybe, love appointment is necessary to you? “ till Friday I was absolutely free. And, perhaps, the only thing that did not threaten me in this small town is a love appointment. Therefore I have asked a handsome man to make to me the developed program of travel - at first slightly to cheer up after road, then slightly to get drunk, then - (all - taki) - a liqueur glass kindling fire of love (it is pure in the research purposes), then - to move in that direction which he will offer, and right at the end - to sober up in reasonable limits. The owner has unperturbably started to work. I have taken seat more conveniently. Further reminded a medical hypnotic session. “ we Relax! “ - the barman intoned and moved to me the next pile - large salt and is generous porubannyj lajm already were under the left hand. After acceptance the pause of minute in four with which the owner filled with reasonings on a subject followed, than is good present crude meskal and a leah it is necessary to add in salt of dried caterpillars. It did not interest at all, whence I such undertook and that here I do. The pause came to an end, it reached for the following bottle and declared: “ Now vivacity inflow! “

I not strongly inspired person. I will tell more - completely not not inspired as well I know the mechanism of action of hypnosis and it plaid about in a youth. I attentively listened to change of internal sensations - and in general all coincided. After the last glass I really absolutely have sobered up unexpectedly a little, have thanked the owner, have paid off and has moved to an exit. “ pogodi! “ - he has said to me in a back. “ I want to treat you with the Present tequila. It is done by my grandmother, and I drink only it. “ With these words it has bent down, has pulled out from - under racks a huge large bottle with a muddy liquid and - for the first time has smiled.

* * *

Tequila shows an example of use by the western civilisation of another`s resources for creation of the representations about the perfect.

On a broader scale - that would be more correct to speak about meskale - a drink created by conquistadors of Cortes.

Before their occurrence in America, Aztecs drank the drink preparing from begun to ferment juice of a blue agave - pulke. This kaktusovaja brazhka was not stronger than 6 degrees and smelt as meat that was not necessary on taste to the Spaniards who have got used to the present drinks of a high strong hold. Then, knowing distillation secrets, anonymous umeltsy - self-racers from among conquistadors, have built a boiling cube and after distillation pulke have received the drink of a worthy strong hold named meskal that in language of Aztecs nauatle it is translated as a boiled agave. Probably, from - for the found out strategic importance of the agave, all district has received the name Mexico - “ a place where the agave " grows;.

the Beginning of manufacture of tequila connect with Pedro Sanchez`s name de Tagli, marquis Altamira who has applied for the first time new technology at itself on gasende Kuizilos in 1600.

In 1656 goduproishodit important event in a world history of strong alcoholic drinks - is based a city Tequila. In hundred forty years rich latifundists of Kuervo begin manufacture “Mezcal Vino de Tequila” - that is meskalnye wines from Tequila.

Mark “Jose Cuervo” till now exists and it is considered the oldest manufacturer of a drink. So tequila, to a certain extent, the relative of cognac, champagne and porto, received the name on manufacture district.

To the middle 20 - go centuries meskal was exposed to unitary distillation. Further, for strong hold increase, began to apply two-multiple distillation that has raised a strong hold of a drink to 40 degrees habitual to Europeans.

Today manufacture meskalja and tequilas differs, it has strictly regulated cycles.

At first from 7 - 8 - the summer agave reaching 70 - 80 kg are taken the core of a plant similar to pineapple - pinas.

Meskal make in osnovnomna small, family vinokurnjah. In the earth dig out a hole, on it dnokladut stones and on them make fire. When stones are heated, coals clean, and on their place put pinas and cover all with earth and agave leaves. Through 2 - 3 days pinas take and make small stone millstones. The received juice wanders couple of days, and then overtake. At double distillation meskalja it turns out Mezcal Refino, a strong hold to 55 degrees. At mass proizvodstvemeskalja a distillation product dilute with water.

Meskal byvaetnaturalnym without endurance and Aneho - sustained not less than one year in oak butts.

Tequila, unlike meskalja - a mass production product. A core of a blue agave cook over steam from one about two days, then crush, receiving juice. This juice zabrazhivajut by means of yeast or reed sugar also maintain to 8 - mi days then overtake twice. Already after reception of a ready drink it dilute with the distilled water. Thus for export the strong hold makes 38 - 40 %, and for home market of the present machoes - 40 - 46 %.

Tequila can be idle time - white, without endurance - it is called still serebrjannoj (silver).

Flavored, but not sustained tequila is called as gold (Gold or Oro) - it of golden colour from - for karamelnyh additives.

- one more version - is drawn by Tekila Repozado not less than 2 - h months in oak butts and gets similar to gold colour, without having additives.

At last, aneho as well as in a case with meskalem it is drawn in oak butts not less than one year, and the capacity of butts should not exceed 600 litres. Depending on endurance colour can up to be dark - brown. Should tell that I could drive all Mexico and, I, as well as in a case with sake in Japan, or vodka in Russia have understood that the Mexican with tequila will not surprise. There is a great variety meskalja and tequilas, as well as describes it And. M. And the indispensable patriotic statement of inhabitants of any small town that them meskal or tequila - the best. However, all - on the fan. About ten years ago our companion, Ivan Vladimirovich Dyhovichnyj, having gone to Mexico, has brought therefrom affection to meskalju with a worm - Mezcal con Guzano. In a bottle at the bottom - a worm from an agave which basically can and be eaten. In addition to it, the small bag is applied on a bottle with a red powder - “ pounded insects “ the unknown person prishozhdenija.

Vanja has passed on meskal, having refused vodka. It is necessary to tell that wonderfully this drink leaves next morning a lucid mind, irrespective of volume drunk. What a difference in quality meskalja, whether in insects and a mysterious worm.

Tequila aneho at high endurance has taste of cognac and is drunk as well as other noble drinks of respectable age - gradually and savouring.

Tequila - a drink cheerful. Besides a traditional direction of use - a lemon + salt, is still rapido or tequila boom. In a wine-glass pour tequila half-and-half with tonic. A wine-glass close a hand, beat about a bar rack, that a liquid inside “ has begun to boil “ also drink off.

Tequila is rather individually transferred. At one calls remarkably cheerful mood without morning consequences, others a heartburn and a headache. To understand it is necessary to try.