To submit top To - to 2 Ural climbers the Korean noodleshelped Eating only it, participants of the Himalaya expedition have lost in weight, but have reached the purpose
One of these days the command of climbers of Evgenie Vinogradsky has returned home after a four-monthly ascension on top To - 2 (about conquest of legendary Pakistan top “ wrote on May, 19th, 8, on June, 22nd, 20, 22, on July, 27th and 17, on August, 24th). Weight loss has appeared not a unique problem which the Ural climbers have faced. Several children had to withdraw from - for reeled health.
- on To - 2 we rose gradually, - has told “ the repeated subjugator of the Himalayas Evgenie Vinogradsky. - Reached certain height and set up camp. At times from - for abomination weathers it was necessary to wait till some days. From - for absence of movement at two children feet strongly were ill, there were thromboses of popliteal veins. Moreover and easy steels to play pranks. It was necessary to remove from height and to send in hospital. We ate the Korean noodles of fast preparation and soluble juice. “ a diet “ has yielded the results, during expedition I have grown thin for 14 kgs, one more participant - on 16.
Two days we could not even leave tent
Despite all complexities and problems with health, 11 from 16 members of expedition all - taki have subdued the second vosmitysjachnik planets. The occasion to pride is, moreover what - the command Vinogradsky and Bolotov has subdued for the first time dangerous top on the western wall.
- we have decided to rise not simply on To - 2, - one more veteran of the Ural mountaineering Alexey Bolotov tells, - and to pass on the western wall. It is the most difficult site, almost steep rocks here go to height of 7500 metres. The average steepness makes them 70 degrees, and some and at all with a negative bias.
According to climbers, weather too did not please: almost all time of barrels the squally wind also went snow. In one of camps on approaches to the top of children the present storm, two days they even from tent has overtaken could not leave, then have decided to go down downwards - upwards at such weather it was impossible to move, and without movement organisms started to die away and the fighting spirit fell.
success size uraltsam have informed on a portable radio set
And all - taki to the middle of August the Himalaya expedition Vinogradsky and Bolotov has begun storm of the top To - 2. The first the western wall was stormed by Alexey Bolotov. It has passed almost up to the end, but has buried in an impassable site and has curtailed back. The second attempt was more successful.
- on August, 12th we left base camp with small tent, - the participant of expedition, nizhnetagilets Vadim Popovich shares pleasure. - In snezhno - an ice layer have cut through a place and have set up temporary camp. Have spent the night, and in the morning we with Estonian Andrey Marievym have sent upwards, despite a wind. Simply for four places in tent did not suffice, as the sleeping bag on a broader scale was one. In general, this time we have found a way to top.
according to Vadim, to top To - 2 conducts a long snow crest. The top represents snow having inflated, which conducts to a precipice. In the centre of it naduva the metal hook is hammered.
- we have been so concentrated to lifting that at all have not felt any delight, - Vadim Popovich shares impressions. - Having reached top, at once have started to be photographed, because time was a little. This place climbers name “ a death zone “ oxygen here so a little, it is impossible what long to be late. As to spite, on peak there was a fog and there was a snow, therefore quality of photos leaves much to be desired. Besides speed of a wind, instead of promised by weather forecasters 30 - ti kilometres per hour reached 60 - ti. Actually, we have realised size of our success, when on a portable radio set us have asked, where we. I have responded - at top, and have there and then heard joyful shouts “ hurrah “!
On top To - 2 uraltsy have set up three flags: the Russian Federation, Sverdlovsk area and Ekaterinburg.
And At this time
it is interesting that in the beginning of June when our command has arrived to Pakistan, at bottom vosmitysjachnika Godwin Austen it has been broken about 70 camps. But from - for bad weathers the majority of climbers have parted on houses with what. Only 17 persons have subdued To - 2 on the blazed route.
- many looked at the western wall, - Evgenie Vinogradsky laughs, - but anybody and has not dared to rise on it. So we became trailblazers.