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Before a trip to Japan knowing people warn the Puff city that will be fine, if it will be possible to understand at least the tenth part of that, than Japanese are proud in the country. And though at the correspondent Money Dmitry Butrina is not present till now confidence that all is understood correctly, Tokyo has seemed to it very suitable place for the Russian tourist. Boring and ordinary Tokyo will not seem even to the tempted traveller, at the same time in capital of its Japan the habitual Moscow set waits: susi, Murakami, Sony. But - in original execution.

the Language barrier
From the tourist point of view of Tokyo - a real nightmare for the European. With what to begin? In Paris - Tour d ` Eiffel, in London - Piccadilly Circus, in Beijing - Tjananmen, in Moscow - Red Square. Tokyo begins with railway station Tokyo - from the improbable scheme of the Tokyo city communications. Basically it is possible to name their part underground. But train Shinkansen going to Sapporo costs two floors more low on tracks of a futuristic kind. Still a floor more low - city electric trains JR. Upwards on long escalators - Jurikamome, the elevated underground, managing to do without machinists and, apparently, in general without the personnel at the stations. In this kingdom of transport pass under the small rectangular tickets which are on sale in automatic cash desks without a uniform inscription in English. It is necessary to press simply on any buttons and to throw coins of any advantage - something yes leaves.
on the scheme it is a lot of hieroglyphs which are sometimes deciphered by mysterious words: Shinbashi, Asakusa, Hibya, and even Kokkaigijidomae. It would seem, the first passer-by - the Japanese now will quickly explain in English, where here known to you from newspapers cheerful area Gindza or skyscrapers of Roppongi. Absolutely European kind the Japanese listens to your confused questions politely and says: Haji . In half-minute you understand what to translate haji as yes incorrectly, in practice it means: I have understood you and I think what to answer . And in three minutes you find out that inhabitants of Tokyo know English where worse, than graduates of the Tambov high school. And that you read in classical Japanese prose of VI century Stories about people extraordinary not exaggeration: the Japanese soul on mysteriousness will give hundred points of odds Russian, nobody will help, to understand in all it is necessary independently.
even 15 minutes - also you dare to go out of doors. However, it not so is simple: the Hatch Besson, removing the the Fifth element Undoubtedly, Tokyo was inspired, drawing a many-storeyed city. Arrows - indexes will not help: about, whether there are you on the third underground floor of department store or on motorway sidewalk at height of three floors, is written on bright tablets. But only on - japonski.
in Japan three alphabets: the hieroglyphic alphabet borrowed from China kandzi, the syllabic alphabet hiragana on which names of Japanese words for which there are no hieroglyphs, and katakana by which words and the subjects are designated are written, which Japanese have borrowed in Europe. The formed Japanese knows a minimum 3 - 5 thousand hieroglyphs kandzi. Children in Japan learn hiragane since six years. That disappears in the restaurant menu behind this or that inscription this or that alphabet, you, apparently, do not learn never.
However, what secrets. Certainly, susi.

the Fugue on tatami
Inhabitants of quarter Hibija, adjoining a complex of the governmental buildings, for a dinner prefer the Chinese and Korean small restaurants. The Italian and French coffee houses are considered as a glamour. In Tokyo in comparison, say, with Moscow foreigners - a rarity. Basically it is Americans and why - that Brazilians. Therefore Japanese restaurants in Tokyo nevertheless more than in Moscow - Russian.
any foreigner in Tokyo concern with watchfulness politely. In - the first, the Japanese cannot distinguish one nejapontsa from another. In - the second, they are absolutely not capable to learn at least elementary rules of Japanese life. For example, to leave the wet umbrella in a special support before restaurant or at least to pack it in a special package. And after all the rules outwardly very imperceptible, - one of corner stones of Japanese life.
For example, after absorption of the next portion of crude fish (its restaurants buy in five mornings in the world`s largest fish market in Tsukidzi), washed down with warmed up or, on the contrary, ice sake, it is absolutely not accepted to add pair of hundreds yens to the account. Waitresses at restaurants of it simply will not understand and will run for you with delivery until you will not understand, in what business.
if at you in a pocket the mobile phone is yet an occasion to speak on it at the top of the voice in the street, and conversations in a bar - simply loss of the person: on a rack can not be tablets with the crossed out cigarette (Japan, seemingly, - the most smoking country in the world), but the tablet with the crossed out receiver it will be obligatory.
if you are ready to observe rules, further for got hungry probably all. Susi, sasimi, teppanjaki, jakitori, tempura, misosiri, and also hundreds more words which not to hear and in Moscow Ginnotaki . The first point of travel to Japan is executed: susi is.

the Japanese feature
serves as the Second point of the obligatory program of the tourist in Japan electronics - that has made Japan the economy of the world third or second for the size after the USA and Europe. That is metro station Akihabara on which some quarters of shops of the electronic goods settle down Akihabara Electric Town. For Japanese there are some popular goods in this summer: devices of wireless access to the Internet, electronic satellite systems for the car, mobile phones with any not representable possibilities for the European like on-line viewing of comics. Out of Japan much does not work - for example, modems free of charge distributed in the street for high-speed access to a network.
but outside of Tokyo all works the rest - from laptops to TVs with plasma panels, Japanese spinnings, Japanese cameras and Japanese hours. Therefore crowds of foreigners in Akihabare are comparable only with demonstrations of Japanese about the Russian embassy. That demanded by demonstrators - do not ask. On - japonski it is called Tisima retta on - russki - Southern Kuriles. Besides Kuriles at Japanese of claims to Russia is not present.
And hardly it is possible to consider these claims nationalism in our understanding: more likely all Japan is perplexed, how it is possible not to use four fine islands. In Japan there lives without small 130 million person - a little less, than in Russia. And on Tisima retta - 5 thousand persons, including frontier guards.
what value in Japan the earth has, to understand simply. In Tokyo basically nepredstavim usual Moscow waste ground: in each square metre of the Tokyo earth millions yens are invested hundred thousand, and even. Bent for to development of space at Japanese in blood: There, where it is not meaningful to build a skyscraper, office or, as a last resort, a many-storeyed automobile outcome, the Japanese breaks a golf course, a baseball platform or at least a rice field. Over all they be aerials, repeaters, the transmission lines, forcing to work electronics with Akihabary.
the Japanese industry based on Japanese diligence and severe labour laws (holiday for the young expert in Tokyo in the first years of work makes three days!) Has made the country of one of the richest, and Tokyo - the most expensive city of the world.
well and when bent for to electronics, Japanese cuisine and clothes of Japanese fashion designers shaking imagination (it it is possible to satisfy as in trading quarter Sibuja - more Japanese, and in more European Gindze, the area similar to Arbat, increased in 500 time) it will pass, it is possible to get on television tower Tokyo Tower and to see that represents Big Tokyo. It not only skyscrapers of leading Japanese firms and a motorway. It is very beautiful city not similar on one of world capitals.
however to look at Tokyo not from a teletower, and from a bar on last floors any of the Tokyo skyscrapers - in the evening behind a glass of excellent Japanese whisky much more comfortably. However, from such height precisely it will not be possible to make out details of Japanese life. But Tokyo is good and in such kind. And details can be specified in novels of fashionable Japanese writers, sentencing at reading haji . That on - japonski means yes - but rather approximately.