Rus News Journal

Finding terruara

For me, unlike the classic, a Bordeaux the friend was never. Perhaps under other circumstances I also would not refuse such friends, as Margaux or Latour, but nevertheless they not from my usual life: the expensive also are serious. About their native land I too to admit, did not think. Knew that it is very specific area of France - closed and not too hospitable. That acquaintances on wine labels locks do not plough up the high gate before tourists. That it is difficult to get to them even on half-hour tasting, and for a supper, especially on a lodging for the night or postoj (as it quite often happens in Italy), - it is simply improbable. Sandro Hatiashvili from wine company Simple has promised that if to go with it, there will be all. It already opened to me a gate of an underground wine treasury of the Burgundian Check ( - Weekend from 25. 04). It was necessary to believe and go to the new it is wine - a gastronomic adventure.

Bordeaux, as it is known, shares on two parts: coast left (the rivers of Gironde and its inflow of Garonne), where Medok and Grav, and coast right (the same Gironde and its inflow of Dordogne), where Sent - Emilon and Pomrol. But local rive gauche - something opposite to cheerful bohemian left coast of Paris. In Bordeaux it is the earth of old aristocratic estates, legendary terruar Margaux, Latour, Mouton and Lafite - limestone from starfishes under a huge layer of gravel and a pebble which heats up in the afternoon, and gives warmly thick-skinned, to late ripening tannin Cabernet sovinonu at night. That it has revealed and has reached so valued in wines of a Bordeaux of refinement and long difficult poslevkusija, the long-term endurance - often is necessary more than decade still. On the right coast all on - to another: In soils too there is a gravel and galechnik, but a layer is more thin, and under it instead of limestone soft peschano - clay adjournment - here a kingdom thin-skinned, womanly, faster ripening and capable to earlier disclosing merlo. Left-bank aristocrats believe till now that great wines are born only in locks with old family vinodelcheskimi traditions, and consider right-bank - the bourgeois and upstarts. Sent - Emilon, Pomrol have not included in due time in well-known bordoskuju classification of 1855 which on the instructions of Napoleon III have prepared for the World`s fair in Paris. And though a lot of wine has flowed away since then, and right-bank have created own classification, and Cheval Blanc or Petrus even without it became cult wines of Bordeaux, passions do not cease till now. Because on a game there is enormous money.

Bordeaux - the biggest in France region defined in a place of an origin of wines. In world practice only bordoskie wines bargain at a stock exchange in the form of futures (so-called en primeur), and the initial price depends today not so much on a place in classifications, how many from opinion of wine critics, under the big account only one of them: great and awful American Robert Parker. And is estimated and on sale at intermediary of brokers negotsiantskim to houses (on the system which has developed in Bordeaux the majority of leading locks does not trade directly) actually a half-finished product: in the spring of 2008 traded in a crop 2007 - go though only in 2009 - m will pour it on the bottles, which else to lie and lie. All know that the main critic loves corpulent, strong and bright wines. More than once happened that the highest points at Parker were received by talented and diligent right-bank beginners. Youngish Pavie at it it appeared on a level with Latour, and the former bank employee Jean - Ljuk Tjuneven who has decided to prove to the whole world that it is possible to make great wine not only on great terruare, but also on a modest plot of land of Sent - Emilona in vinodelne size about garage (from here and expression " has gone; garage winemaking ) Has been declared by Parker a new star. Still about 20 years ago terruar in Bordeaux was considered as a unique deity - now there were people who value declare itself. I still should get acquainted With them.

on the right coast we have lodged in Chateau Malleret, the started aristocratic estate. On - rural lovely bedrooms where walls are upholstered by a chintz in a small cheerful floret, the grassy freshness of air and a kind on infinite emerald prospect lugovin is a lot of light. From Chateau Malleret no distance before possession of any of pillars of left-bank light. If there are kind relations with leaders negotsiantskimi houses, gate even the first locks are opened. Now understand, why it is impossible to get to such places through tourist agencies, it is independent, - only through large, with good reputation of importers. It is necessary to tell that in Bordeaux Russian importers very much even welcome. We now, on a level with Americans, Japanese and (that has amazed me) the Chineses, the largest purchasers of wines who even on en primeur go on 500-800 euros for a bottle. The scenario same: as soon as there is fantastic sum, people want that symbolises luxury, - Margaux, Latour, Petrus. With a thousand bottle for two euros can easy wash down tolstennyj a beefsteak, anything especial without having felt. By the way, on tasting in Chateau Latour I was a little puzzled with that the main wine of the lock of 1998 actually was pleasant to me less than its second wine 2005 - go - Les Forts de Latour. Only by the trip end, having gained some experience in bordoskih tastings, I have understood, in what here business: the second wines of great left-bank locks are easier for understanding and they reveal faster, besides 2005 - j was ideal for all local winemaking. And one more: wines of the XXI-st century to us became closer - Bordeaux in the face of changes.

it would Seem, a strange thing for France: In Aquitania (the old name of all jugo - the West of France) never was known restaurants, them in general here was a little. Owners of estates preferred to have dinner, supper and receive visitors of the house. On one such typical reception I have visited in magnificent Chateau Beychevelle. Amazing beauty a XVIII-th century palace, promising aperitif on an open terrace with a kind to Gironde, quite good snack from fresh oysters and a lobster and the most boring main - course from veal with podlivoj. Thus magnificent wines of the best for Bordeaux of years. Speak, favourite meal in left-bank locks - stakes and a shish kebab on coals from a rod. But next day we have gone to have dinner in Chateau Cordeillan Bages, an institution with two mishlenovskimi stars, from - for which the French restaurant criticism even has got special definition new Aquitania kitchen or the Aquitania gastronomic Renaissance . Here Terri Marx who has received two years ago an honorary title of the best chief of France lives. The hotel belongs to the owner of the glorified economy Lynch - Bazh - cheerful and opened Jean - to Michel Kazu. Vineyards have got to it not in the best possible way, besides all - navsego 5 - e cru on classification of 1855. Jean - Michel has employed the talented young wine maker, modernised cellars, has altered an old building of an estate and, directly as it is done by Italians, has opened in it hotel, and in 1997 - the m has invited the expert in so-called innovative kitchen.

Menju Terri Marx can shock: rizotto from sprouts of soybeans, virtual sausage, liquid Quiche Lorraine. It is amused, as the conjurer - the clown: submits that names onions soup, in a graceful transparent package with a hole where the straw for a cocktail is inserted. To tell the truth, I not the big fan of molecular kitchen, and at Marx am both mousses, and foams, and everyones changed by thermobeating, superzamorozkoj and other artful technologies of a dish. But thus without typical for molekuljarshchikov, considering outstanding persons of art, and at all cooks, pathos. At Marx more and more ingenuously, similar on children`s game: you want a fruit dessert? Please - sweet, as sugar candies, eggplants in sorbete from a green basil. Actually it is beautiful, it is tasty and without search, when foam on the first, the second and the third. In Chateau Cordeillan Bages I ate quite to myself the natural fish not spread out to particles, and vials from marakuji and tsitronelly only underlined its noble refinement. I do not represent, as it himichit with fua - gra but when submits it on karamelizirovannom a peach with an air veil from porto, in a product does not remain also a trace of luscious fat content - one tenderness. If technologies facilitate products, keeping and even strengthening natural tastes and aromas, I am ready to reconcile to them. And then, as this ridiculous delicatessen singing of full freedom was necessary to the Medical eye haughty and chained in restrictions! When I have asked the chief who of great locks to it is closer, he has very seriously told: Mine terruar in me . I have understood that conversations on greatness of Bordeaux have got it. Bald Marx so similar to Bruce Willis, names the philosophy Marxism, the kitchen planetary, - the child without roots and the eternal wanderer. Not in portable, and literally words because was born in a family of the Polish emigrants in poor quarter of Paris, has been thrown out from poor apartment and then long wandered all over the world. I understand, why to it, to the newcomer without a sort, without a tribe so it is important to prove that it can change something on this earth. Every winter, when the restaurant is closed, Marx leaves that to Japan, to Singapore in Australia to live and study. the Whole world, all my impressions, - he speaks, - an inspiration source. I am opened to all. I much can. The XXI-st century delicatessen should not be adhered only to terruaru . These ideas are divided in many respects also by local owner Jean - Michel Kaz - he knows English as native, too travels much, everywhere tells about wines of Bordeaux, about the ingenious earth and people which all - taki should live not in the past, and in the time. According to Parker, this attitude has helped Kazu to design space launch Lynch Bages - its fault, sensual and open, all last years are stably estimated at level 2 - go cru.

So Marxism starts up in Bordeaux roots. On the right coast, in medieval Sent - Emilone, new owners Chateau Pavie of Zherar and Shantal the Persian, as well as Kaz, reconstructed an old building under hotel - restaurant Hostellerie de Plaisance. To tell the truth, for a long time did not see so entertaining place. The building always looked picturesquely: has almost merged with a stony hill from which the wonderful kind on tile roofs and curve small streets of charming small town where almost in all shops sell wine or wine accessories opens. In the beginning of the XX-th century hotel have christened a pleasure Shelter so its name is translated. It has changed many owners while in 1998 - m in Sent - Emilon have not arrived the former owners of a large network of supermarkets young spouses the Persian and have not got estate Chateau Pavie which though was classified as Premier Grand Cru, but was not among the best. Further occurred under the scenario of Kaza. Beginners the Persian, as well as garage Wine makers to them, have begun with might and main to try - to reduce crops, to modernise and reconstruct, besides terruar them Chateau was initially very good. They have bought also hotel Hostellerie de Plaisance, and almost under it, on the same hill, one more medieval house. Both buildings of Shantal the Persian has connected the glass lift which takes place directly through a hill, and then natural lawns between cases have appeared trailing gardens on which lodgers and touching cows from colour fiber glass now walk.

Elena Chekalova