Rus News Journal

The restaurant criticism

last week the hunting season has been officially opened in Petersburg - at restaurant Landskrona at hotel the Neva oriental carpet . This week the hunting relay race was picked up by Moscow. Hotel aerostar hardly having taken rest after a meeting with Indonesian cuisine, has decided to celebrate an autumn holiday of game. The festival menu at restaurant Borodino it will be possible to try up to November, 4th. With details our correspondent DARYA - TSIVINA.

Special hunting menus have already ceased to be for a long time a wonder in Moscow. Two years ago similar festivals were spent in the Moscow commercial club and restaurant the Taiga (all in the same aerostare ) . Last year game it was possible to try in Knight a flight and Yefimov at the New body . And this autumn has presented to us the new hunting menu at restaurant Borodino . It is necessary to tell that recently this restaurant most sensitively reacts to revolution of the season. In the spring in Borodino there was a fish menu. Arrival of summer has been noted by the special menu from young vegetables. In September the head cook of restaurant Helmut Anzer has offered visitors the exclusive mushroom menu. And in October time has come there is a game.
all festivals in Borodino differ irreproachable taste and refinement. If on noisy and cheerful culinary holidays the Taiga fun and spicy spirit of exotic, " reign; Borodino holds the festivals with truly European lustre. In many respects it is promoted by the classical menu a la carte which keeps the powers. The big role is played also by atmosphere - is underlined elegant and respectable. A game holiday in Borodino passes easy, frostily and without superfluous emotions. In full conformity with classical rules of the European etiquette. However, the game festival all - taki has managed to deviate one standard rule. As it is known, portions at the European restaurant never differ scope. There is a strict interrelation between quality and quantity. The delikatesnee and rafinirovannee the dish, the is less than it. And so, at festival in Borodino all hunting dishes are inclined, so to say, to exaggeration. This tribute to the hunting traditions gives to a holiday special original colour and at all deprives of visitors of possibility to rise from - for a table with easy feeling of hunger. Besides the menu assortment has appeared is so great what to cope with temptation very uneasy.
the choice of cold dishes is rather various. Apparently, Helmut Anzer prefers feathery game to wild boars and bears. The majority of celebratory dishes is prepared from a bird. First of all it is necessary to note galantin from a female quail - the most gentle smelling sweet rulet with sauce chatni from cherries. The Indian spicy note gives to this snack special charm. By the way, the female quail appears and in one of soups. Fried perepelinoe the fillet supplements matte soup - a cream from lentil. g - n Anzer has subjected wild geese to smoking. Accompany smoked goose grudku a fresh mango and sauce vinaigrette. As you can see, in Borodino the game was added with the most refined accessories. And thanks to this contrast of a dish look so effectively. Two green salads, the snack presented in section is a bit easier look. Salad from sprouts is seasoned by orange sauce, and the allsorts from kachannyh salads supplement classical vinaigrette with nut oil and a sherry. But the main thing is, certainly, game. For the first salad the most gentle sausage from a pheasant, slightly reminding east kupaty, but softer and juicy became the main character. The second salad is crowned with slices of pigeon meat. It is necessary to tell that meat of a pigeon completely not similar on meat of other birds. It reminds a fillet of any elk or a deer - same dark, sated and heavy more likely. Though also softer. As to deer, traditional for Borodino karpachcho from a venison this time moves with juicy freshening salad from a celery, apples and walnuts.
still never, on one hunting holiday in Moscow did not appear konsome from game... With kneljami from pistachios. Here already just right to remember immortal creation of chief Champs Elysees of Patrick Ferri - kneli from a crocodile. And to give due to Helmut Anzeru who has creatively comprehended this French masterpiece. Chops from a venison became one more unconditional good luck of the menu. This dish simply perfectly well looks. First you see two huge natural cutlets on the stones, covered with the golden ruddy test. But as soon as the knife pierces a friable crust, is there and then found out that any this not a cutlet, and a medallion filled with fragrant ceps. The stone plays purely decorative role. The sated taste of a venison and ceps shades the most gentle mousse from a celery, and sauce from madery adds I observe a special savour. Sharper and open taste has a fillet of a hare under sauce from a cranberry and green bell pepper. This dish is supplemented with a tartlet from a potato baked in cream, and slightly boiled vegetables. Even more expressed hunting colour has other traditional garnish - red cabbage. The fried pheasant is served by cabbage, tushennoj in champagne, and a ragout from a wild boar - kvashenoj red cabbage.
for a dessert sweet dishes from the constant menu a la carte are offered. Wishing to finish the hunting supper jagodno - a fruit still-life it is possible to recommend cranberry and lemon sorbet with the cooled vodka or a fresh strawberry with a cream from a rhubarb. But personally I advise to pay attention on shtrudel from apples and cheese maskarpone . An accurate sack from the fragile test, strewn lightly with the vanilla, filled with sweet soft cheese and transparent, pripushchennymi in sugar the apples, served sourish it is bright - red cranberry sauce, it is capable to make the most pleasant impression. Even if you had never control over a double-barrelled gun...

the prices of the festival menu at restaurant Borodino (*****): green salad with a sausage from a pheasant - $15, konsome from game with kletskami from pistachios - $11, chops from a venison and ceps in the test - $45, a fillet of a hare with sauce from a cranberry and pepper - $35, shtrudel from apples and cheese maskarpone - $9. All credit cards For payment are accepted. The restaurant works from 18 o`clock till 23 o`clock.

the restaurant address: the Leningrad avenue, d. 37. Phone: (095 213 - 90 - 00.