Rus News Journal

Laguria: the rich man - the poor man

meal with Elena Chekalovoj

In Laguria is not present thick, only the thin. Harmonous and even absolutely thin people. Or here still a riddle: here, where the narrow strip of the suitable earth for life is clamped between the sea and rocks where air solon, seafood is eaten basically with tourists. I how many time was convinced - if of the restaurant menu only expensive fish, shrimps, skampi and other armour-clad, means, a place purely tourist. That is products here, certainly, fresh, but it is not necessary to wait for interesting kitchen. For 28 you will receive eight huge shrimps in known garlick sauce with banal salad from rukkoly. Local residents in the fish market take basically the small small fish who reminds nazhivku for serious fishing more. And here this is that a trifle in correct places absolutely masterly bake in olive oil, grain crumbs and any unknown to other mankind aromatic grasses. So these places still podi find! Them will not prompt konserzhi smart hotels, it is necessary to search for them in the distance from the first line of the sea, in the heart of quarters, among ragged centuries-old buildings (them, despite wooden overlappings, anybody here is not going to take down) on a smell, on persons of waiters, which as native welcome any modestly dressed elderly pair - probably, regular customers. Here still why I prefer the European rest (if, of course, is though couple of weeks) in demountable apartments: when you live among local residents as - that is easier to reconnoiter the most tasty that is called, authentic places. And at a sight from windows of star hotels that Rimini that Forte - dej - Marmi or the Dignity - the Track with Kannom all as - that merges. Unless in one places a beach sand, and in others galechnyj. Or, say, in Portofino shop Cartier adjoins with Louis Vuitton and Loro Piana, and here in Santa - Margarita where my family has spent present summer vacations, will find unless D &G. Also what will then be remembered? What in salon Bottega Venetta saw live Eltona John? What in a bay there was a smart multimeter vessel which so is similar to Abramovich`s yacht? What at port restaurant of a fur-tree of a shrimp in size with barabulku? Only at what here real Laguria?

this spring I was the witness to conversation of the successful Russian businessman with the manufacturer of one of the famous Italian wines. The Russian has taken an interest in annual profit of the Italian. Having learnt figures, he has in a low voice told to me that is simply ridiculous gorbatitsja (before to us have shown all production cycle of an economy) for so small money. In Laguria the efforts spent for each earned euro, are especially obvious. People fuss since morning till the night. In benches, in bakeries, on market disorders the freshest products. In total in such surplus that the prices are low. As if all have agreed to tempt at every turn though with something. Olive oil, but also cheeses, vegetables, fruit, bread - all the highest quality is especially magnificent. Santamargaritets Chezare Fratti, the owner as the most tourist - La Stalla, and one of authentic restaurants - Oca Bianca where it is not enough strangers, and so it, despite old age, itself buys products and all the day standing. And cooks and waiters - members of his family: sons, daughters-in-law, nephews. The account exposes to local measures not cheap - on the average 80 from a nose (with good wine, certainly), but on the Moscow concepts an utter nonsense, and it for extremely skilful kitchen when eat vjalenuju osljatinu or the veal shovel, stuffed with forcemeat with grasses, peas and spinach, aromatnejshie noki from a chestnut flour with bazilikovym pesto or korzeti (paste in the form of medals) under nut sauce.

Perhaps any other area of Italy so was not expressed in the delicatessen, as Laguria. Poor, infertile, rocky and stony, as if the godforsaken earth. Yet so a long time in mountainous internal areas before it was difficult to reach that local residents ate almost exclusively that grows near at hand. Here it - an ideal of supporters slow food. I do not speak about oil and gas, but here was not present either extensive arable lands, or spacious pastures. In Italy ligurijskuju a delicatessen when - that named la cucina povera - kitchen for poor. Here from time immemorial cooked almost fast food, on a table olive oil, bean, magnificent vegetables and grasses, nuts, mushrooms, chestnuts and tiny anchovies - the present sample of the Mediterranean diet were not translated only. Here it whence, genetic symmetry ligurijtsev. However these poor men always remained Italians - they liked to eat well and have shown such ingenuity that now yours faithfully speak about them to kitchen of work, patience and aromas . After all it here have thought up ravioli, on a local dialect rabiole means something trifling the rests . Well, ligurijtsy selected even crumbs of cheese, spinach and grasses, skilfully wrapped them in the most thin dough; they had few animal fats, and they have thought up for the pelmeshek grassy and nut sauces. In Milan or Rome at all do not know such names as cima (a labour-consuming dish from giblets, tushennyh in a clay pot with wine, vegetables, spicy grasses and the goat cheese), there you will not find such intricate dishes from stuffed vegetables, such variety of flat cakes (including from a chestnut or pea flour) and sauces.

but that has especially amazed me, so it is completely not country refinement. In the same Oca Bianca among hot snack submitted the most gentle and thin flan (souffle) from an asparagus under the cheese sauce, decorated with basil leaflets. Looked an absolute dish of French cuisine - it has appeared primordially Italian, even ancient Roman, described in almost first recipe-book on light. Only Romans did flany sweet, as now Frenchmen, and ligurijtsy - vegetable. And all is marvellously simple. Take an asparagus, clean, cut off a part of heads for an ornament. The remained small stalks need to be welded in a small amount of water to softness. As will cool down, to crush in a blender, and then gradually to add the eggs separated from yolks fibers, salt, pepper, it is a little parmesan and a little nutmeg. When I did sparzhevye flany for the first time, terribly was surprised, having received a liquid mix: well as it can turn to an air souffle? But all left! After all then I as me have taught in Oca Bianca, took kokotnitsy (these are such cups for egg souffles, but it is possible to do in small glasses or even in one big form for a pudding or a pie), have greased with their olive oil, have poured in them the talker and have put in the big frying pan half filled with water, - and in an oven, preliminary nagretuju to 180. Where - that through a half-hour I have not sustained and have touched flany a finger - the mix has already thickened. Well, at last - that I have guessed, same omelettes on a steam bath! Doderzhala them about the put 50 minutes for now they cooled down a little, has quickly prepared sauce - has simply mixed the remained yolks, shabby chedder, it is a little milk and oil and has warmed up, stirring slowly to zagustenija, on a steam bath. And here it - the happy ending! I spend a knife tip on internal walls kokotnits, I close everyone a plate and I overturn, hardly - hardly I knock on a bottom - and matchless it is gentle - salatovye kulichiki appear in all magnificence. I water with their cheese sauce and I decorate the a bit boiled tops of an asparagus. My son has advised to add the cleared pistachios for design - it has turned out even more interesting to taste. So it was pleasant to me that now I do flany of tomatoes, from avocado, from a green basil. Represent, as visitors will be struck if to submit these small souffles on the big plates, it is beautiful to sauce and hardly carelessly to scatter basil leaflets (or mints) and pistachios! In Laguria as to me have told, such dishes in the nature of things every day. People are able to live! Perhaps they are not so godforsaken, and all their poverty - special blessing, with which happiness more than from an oil damnation?