The restaurant criticismOur restaurant critic DARYA - TSIVINA finishes the report on a trip in Shotland
the Restaurant criticism
Our restaurant critic DARYA - TSIVINA finishes the report on a trip to Scotland where it together with representatives of firm Grand S, the exclusive distributor of company Seagram in Russia, has visited under invitation Seagram, owning nine known vinokurnjami an adhesive tape - whisky. Today you will get acquainted with the Scottish restaurant “ the Verandah “ which is located in small family hotel Cullen Bay directly at the sea that is why deservedly it is considered fish.
Any institution located on seacoast, be it Mediterranean or Northern, has special patrimonial lines. The Scottish restaurant Verandas is among such coastal sea institutions. Its spacious long verandah fronts the sea, and behind a bar the open court yard with summer plastic furniture and a picturesque kind on green hills and golden fields has taken place. The hall as that in Verandas does not exist - it is replaced with two big sun porches with the covered tables. But there is a big salon with easy chairs and the sofas, intended for after-dinner coffee. The most surprising that exactly - in - exactly same “ the Verandah “ it is easily possible to present where - nibud to Italy, Spain or France. Northern Scottish nature near to the sea it changes and becomes directly imperceptible - taki southern. Though Scots in the sea do not bathe (unless in careless years of the childhood and adolescence), from wave party Verandas seem warm and tender. The hills dissolved in a fog of the sea, cast memoirs about krutobokom Aju - Dage, the crimson decline reminds of the southern passionate sun of Kosta - del - Salt, and the low star sky causes an image of far hot Akapulko in memory. If not penetrating wind anybody also has not guessed that water temperature in the North Sea at the Scottish coast even does not exceed fifteen degrees in the summer. And in the winter... But on glazed “ to the Verandah “ always warm, on tables candles burn, and behind windows are seen the Spanish crimson sky, Marseilles pale ldinka the moon and the Mexican star scatterings.
Scots use the sea restaurants with the maximum return. Here they feel, as on a resort, and eat fish with gifts of the sea of exclusive freshness, catching them directly ahead of the use. However, by and large, any place in Scotland is a resort, and any Scottish menu are the freshest local products. And in any Scottish institution special attention is given to national kitchen. The head cook prepares at least five - six traditional dishes and as much author`s. The rest - modern perusal of classics. However at such restaurants, as “ the Verandah “ to choose dishes costs nevertheless not to a national sign, but on a type mark “ our sea fish is caught in area Tanks and Piterhed only by local fishermen, fresh-water fish is extracted from the river of a valley of Spej “.
such comment accompanies section of fish dishes “ Verandahs “. Giving of fish is very simple, as it is accepted at seaside restaurants. So, the North Sea haddock from family treskovyh moves baked on a grill with petrushechnym oil or zharennoj on shefskomu to the recipe with a lemon and sauce “ tartar “. The fillet of fish salt from family kambalovyh accompanies sea muslin, green salad and sauce from a lemon and cedar nutlets. Fish tjurbo from this families treskovyh is served by white wine sauce. The sea salmon moves in the form of salad with greens, a lemon, mousse from a horse-radish and kneljami from Arran gorchitsy. And a river salmon the asparagus, a lemon and oil with lajmom accompany. Similar laconicism in preparation and giving of fish seems quite justified. After all the main advantage of the freshest sea and river fish - in their natural taste. And the main task of the cook - to present fish in this primordial form, having kept its natural advantages. To all fish dishes in “ to the Verandah “ the fried or boiled potato, vegetables and green salad moves. Garnishes, by old Scottish tradition, move on a table in the big oval dishes and intend at once for several visitors.
the assortment of fish dishes is not limited to section “ Fresh local fish “. For example, in section of traditional house dishes there is a Scottish sea ragout “ portsoj “. In comparison with well-known “ haggisom “ - a stewed offal, “ portsoj “ it seems top of grace, ease and nizkokalorijnosti. Though the principle of suppression so popular in Scotch cuisine, is here again used to the full. The gentle ragout from mussels, shrimps, onions and mushrooms disappears under the big chunk of a salmon, a dish supplement sauce from anchovies and fresh steam vegetables. “ portsoj “ - rather tasty dish, and still this fish ragout loses nourishing fragrant “ haggisu “ not only in caloric content, but also in a raciness. After all the similar allsorts seafood could appear on any sea coast, while “ haggis “ has strongly pronounced national lines and a constant Scottish residence permit.
for fans of stewed giblets we inform that the menu “ Verandahs “ offers classical “ haggis “ filled with one-malt whisky and flavoured with slices of the beef fillet. There are also huge meat allsorts where the Viennese sausages, a liver, " enter; haggis “ “ blek a pudding “ bacon, mushrooms, small stakes, medallions from mutton, onions, tomatoes and fried eggs. “ Haggis “ also appears in quality of an accessory to an author`s dish of the chief - a fillet oltmorskogo a chicken. Besides, a chicken accompanies fried blood “ blek a pudding “ and also crimson sauce - a cream casting memoirs on a traditional crimson dessert “ kronakan “. Thus, in one dish “ Verandahs “ Three well-known Scottish delicacies have converged together at once. And if to you a reluctance to order “ haggis “ “ blek a pudding “ and “ kronakan “ separately, can quite manage in one portion local oltmorskogo a chicken.
in general, meat dishes in the menu “ Verandahs “ it is not less, than fish though the institution subjects obviously gravitate to the last. But Scots too love meat to refuse it for the sake of any haddock and a salmon, even the freshest and the most gentle. Except aforementioned ragouts and potofe, in the menu is a little “ an adhesive tape - stakes “. For not clear reasons Scots persistently insist on the Scottish origin of the stakes and in every possible way underline their national identity. Thus remains the uttermost riddle - than differs “ an adhesive tape - a stake “ from any other stake? Unless only that its weight is estimated not in grammes, and in ounces, and as initial raw materials local cows, which no more from a sort act than thirty months.
continuing conversation on fish dishes, it is necessary to mention and traditional soup - mashed potatoes “ Skink “ from smoked fish and a potato. Soup this rather nourishing, but not too expressive not to tell the fresh. However, “ Skink “ - an exception confirming a rule. As a whole Scotch cuisine is expressive, bright and picturesque. Certainly, not last role here plays whisky. The magnificent nature with its sea and mountain landscapes influences also. But the main merits, undoubtedly, remain behind the dishes which are created by the great Scottish people and remaining for ever.
restaurant Verandas prices (*** 1/ 2) not absolutely correspond to service level that, however, with interest compensates an exclusive view of the sea. North Sea haddock - a grill - 6,95 pounds, fish salt - 7,50 pounds, a river salmon - 8,15 pounds, soup “ Skink “ - 2,75 pounds, a fillet oltmorskogo a chicken - 8,95 pounds, the big meat allsorts - 9,95 pounds, “ portsoj “ - 7,95 pounds, “ haggis “ - 7,95 pounds, a fillet - the stake is powerful 6 - 8 ounces - 11,50 pounds, is powerful 10 - 12 ounces - 15,50 pounds. A traditional sweet pudding “ Toffi “ - 2,95 pounds. Credit cards are accepted. The restaurant works from 12 o`clock till 24 o`clock.
the restaurant address: Cullen Bay Hotel, Cullen, Buckie, Banffchire, Scotland. Phone: 0542 - 40432.