Rus News Journal

The murderer of a logo

for days has arrived To Moscow one of the most important people in the world of a modern fashion - the creative director of Italian brand Bottega Veneta Thomas MAYER. For it waited in Moscow for a long time, hoped that it will arrive on opening at first one, then and the second boutique Bottega Veneta, but it has arrived here just now. OLGA MIHAJLOVSKY has met it and has tried to find out, in what an essence of the economic miracle made by it.
Thomas Mayer has been invited to work in Bottega Veneta in 2001 - right after that as the mark which has appeared on the verge of bankruptcy has been redeemed Gucci Group. At that point in time it was the typical splinter of Italian lux, with insufficiently long history (has been based in 1966) not to depend on fluctuations of the fashionable market, on the one hand. C another - with unique craft traditions to lose which would be a criminal negligence. Using the unique technics of weaving of a skin, in Bottega Veneta made very expensive and very bourgeois accessories which peak of glory has had on the seventieth and the beginning of the eightieth. So, for example, in a film American zhigolo there is bag Bottega Veneta as a symbol of desired luxury.

Mayer has been urged to rescue the company, to transform it into a modern fashionable brand. And the first that it has made, - has gone counter to all fashionable trends of that time.

- you remember, what it was time. Logos put on each buckle, on each shoe, on any empty seat. It was time, to put it mildly, a frank fashion, and the best example to that is my old friend Tom Ford.

for the sake of justice it is necessary to notice, what exactly Tom Ford and has invited little-known at that point in time the designer to work in Bottega Veneta. However, Mayer was not known to general public, and in its professional circles for a long time and well knew. He was at that point in time 44 years old. The German from a family of architects, it studied at the French School of haute couture, worked on Sonya Rykiel and Hermes. Then has moved to Florida and has started own mark of beachwear. But the designer - a star which so were cultivated by the fashionable industry ten years ago, it, certainly, was not. Mayer`s idea consisted that true lux is clear without words, that is without names and logos.

- I was always confident that well made thing, from the qualitative material, correctly sitting and that the most important, comfortable does not need any props. It will buy and so. Its accessory to the higher class should be read between lines. If it not so, means, it is simply bad thing. That`s all.

to tell that it was courageous, means not to tell anything. Mayer says that people to whom he explained how the brand, in literal sense " wants to develop; twisted a finger at a temple .

- They, it is visible, considered me as the madman, assured that anything from this does not leave. That no finest thing without the loud name written on it by large letters, has chances to be sold. But I have been assured of the correctness. And today the same sceptics recognise my correctness.

now not to recognise its correctness it is impossible. It has not simply rescued a brand. It has transformed it into an embodiment of truly aristocratic lux. Not bourgeois, namely aristocratic. Thoroughbred restraint of design, its independence of fashionable trends and momentary hobbies have appeared unexpectedly claimed.

- the design something, whether it be clothes, furniture or jewelry, should be out of time. Ornaments should be transferred from mother to the daughter, the furniture should remain in the house and serve many generations, and the dress only then can cost such big money if you want to put on it and in five years.

Thomas Mayer has come in Bottega Veneta when the world bathed in new money and it was that moment when their owners have wanted to look as carriers old money . And Thomas Mayer has taught them to it. The company slogan When your own initials are enough it has appeared ideologically the most true.