Rus News Journal

The restaurant criticism

By Christmas on restaurant “ Arlekino “ (Arlecchino) from Italy there have arrived tiger shrimps, fish - a sword (spada), “ a sea pike perch “ (spigola), mutton, rabbits and other Italian representatives. Hospitably met by restaurant administration directly at the airport, products have gone on kitchen where the overall objective of their arrival has been defined.
our correspondent DARYA TSIVINA has arrived to restaurant to receive particulars of the taken place meeting.

be not frightened, it so, a joke. Certainly, I have gone in “ Arlekino “ to try something the newcomer and at the same time to find out - whether the restaurant " has opened in Rome; Doctor Zhivago “? Or “ the Charter of immunity “? Something such was told last time by the general director “ Arlekino “ Anatoly Gusev...
So, first of all I have learnt that in the menu have already appeared the present salami Milano ΐlloro (directly from Milan, instead of from any Denmark or Switzerland), fish - a sword, the mutton cutting... I have not had time to read up the menu as directly opposite to me has arisen g - n Gusev. And almost simultaneously with it has appeared ΐntipasto all`Italliana - a transparent lace from something pink, crimson, it is dark - red, with proveins, black specks of pepper and a spicy pungent smell.
G - n Gusev, without forgetting to make comments, what exactly I in the given second send in a mouth - sausage of Mortadella, pork neck Coppa or vjalenuju beef Brisaola, have told that from the middle of January in “ Arlekino “ there will be a fresh fish from Tunis, and this fish - the best on all Mediterranean as eats a special Tunisian sea grass that Russian restaurant “ Doctor Zhivago “ Opposite to church Canta - Madzhori will soon open, and us will necessarily invite to presentation that it has been recently shaken by awful service at one known Moscow restaurant (we will not tell in what) and that is more detailed about new dishes to me the head cook and the manager of restaurant will tell.
by the conversation end it became obvious that a firm sharp saltish salami “ Milano “ than it is not similar on gentle - pink, air as a zephyr “ Mortadellu “. And dried up by the hot Italian sun and the meat fanned by a warm Italian wind “ Brizola “ melts in the mouth as quickly, as a marble Parma ham.
on hotter me waited “ fish - a sword on - matrosski “ (spada alla marinara) and the manager of restaurant Nikolay Mikheyev. Imagine a piece of fish in size about all plate, it is dark - golden, as St. Peter`s Cathedral dome on a decline. Also imagine the live, unruly person with points on a nose, eight years lived in Italy and fallen in love to unconsciousness in its kitchen. In this nice campaign I also have spent the remained hours.
fish - a sword with a dense skin and gentle meat has been impregnated by olive oil and wine. Similar I did not try anything earlier. The huge big fish has appeared soft and juicy. Whether the Mediterranean climate has had on it the salutary influence, whether ability the head cook has affected - I do not know. At least, in the recipe Paolo Rizeloni (Paolo Rizelioni) any knowledge it was not found out. Thanking the head cook both I, and you had an opportunity to join to Italian cuisine. So can take at a leisure a piece of fish - a sword, to dry, panirovat in a flour, to fry in peanut oil. Then peanut oil merge and add the olive. There throw garlic, origano (like ours dushitsy) and parsley. Pour in tomato sauce, wine, a broth and boil, while sauce will not thicken. And all!
in general, olive oil Italians dobaljajut in dishes is very frequent. Especially in salads. (By the way, note - it is considered the best oil of the first vyzhimki). Pink salad “ radikio “ terry salad “ tsikorio “ a siliculose string bean “ fadzhelini “ artichokes, olives - all is Italians very much love. “ Here green salad as you will cut, so it and will droop, will creep away, here and put more than any cucumbers and tomatoes “ - with feeling spoke g - n Mikheyev, - “ and at us (in Italy - D. TS) “ tsikorio “ kudrjavenky, magnificent, anything else also it is not necessary! “ And still I have learnt that Italians eat garden radish greens, and green onions do not recognise. That on Tuesday and Friday in Italy - fish day. And still it is a lot of - a lot of interesting. But I will tell next time about it...

the restaurant prices “ Arlekino “ more low, than at the Italian restaurants “ Stelle del Pescatore “ and “ Trattoria “. The Italian snack costs $13. Fish - a sword on - matrosski - $20. The Wine list is rather various: 13 white and 13 red wines at the price from $15 to $62 for a bottle. The most expensive wine - red Brunello di Montalcino.

the restaurant Address: Druzhinnikovsky street, d. 15. Phone: (095 205 - 70 - 88.