Rus News Journal

So fur-trees in Ancient Rome

So left that in day domodedovskogo act of terrorism we have appeared at a foot of Vesuvius. Parallels arose: well, the explosion, any nature, could tear off at all times tens or thousand fragile lives. My son, the young man of 22 years, has terribly amazed that Italians lodge and under construction till now on slopes of mountain which is crowned with an infernal crown of a crater. I interpreted to it fertile volcanic soils which will give birth to Neapolitan tomatoes known on the whole world, about stony terraces with an ideal corner of a sunlight where for a grapevine correct heating in the afternoon and the necessary cooling at night, about bewitching beauty of a gulf and that eventually all these delights are much less dangerous, than does not weed even, and luggage reception at the airport. And he all the same did not understand, how people live on a volcano. You know, I have told, all of us live in any sense on a volcano, but, most likely, at Italians other, than at us, the relation to death, is more true to life.

you noticed, how is arranged not only eternal Rome, but any Italian city? Here where - nibud in Lucca the house of the beginning of the last century was stuck to a turret of a century before last with the base 400 - summer prescription, and behind it a wall of XIX century from which cracks the young grass climbs on light. Sensation that in space of Italy always there are some parallel worlds, and anything does not disappear anywhere. All is live, even that was and one thousand years ago, both two. And people in this space feel absolutely differently, than, for example, we in the. I am familiar with the Venetian count Michelli, the descendant of doges who about ancestors from XV century tells, how about parents living nearby. It managed the lock on the Grandee - the channel in pitiable, it is necessary to tell, a condition. It would be easier to sell, but Michelli has arranged on the top floors wonderful gostinichku and works to restore smart halls of a patrimonial nest. And how differently if behind the back ancestors, ahead descendants, and you roots leave in one, and runaways you sprout in others? But if each generation begins life with a blank leaf then old walls really only disturb. In Naples have now stopped underground building - on a place of the planned tunnel suddenly have found out an ancient temple, now it will dig out and will clear. Or here, the strongest impression of last visiting of Pompey: a vineyard with a live ancient Roman rod in the middle of the hardened city. In Italy now there is even enogastronomicheskaja an archeology! When you see such, you think if not of immortality of soul, about immortality of spirit precisely.

if will appear in Pompey, pass along the street taverns, where racks With the big round deepenings for amphoras, and on walls racks with empty ceramic vessels, and in one place even the fresco with feasting and a fragment of the ancient price-list, and in its most end, near to cleared of ashes " has remained; a bar you will see a mesh gate on a vineyard. On a gate the tablet with an inscription Mastroberardino - a respectable wine economy in a province the Campaign, a bearing name of the owners - wine makers. Strange in our system of co-ordinates people have spent these years for that in literal sense to taste the ancient world, to revive from ashes that rod which grew in Pompey before eruption of Vesuvius. They, present, have found its prints in the hardened ashes, have compared to drawings on frescos, have studied its description in the Natural history Plinija, and then investigated all grades which have remained in region. It has appeared that that, Pompey grade is live till now - it named pedirosso (red pads), and wine from it - the Country house of mysteries . Strong and velvet simultaneously, with peppery gorchinkoj as if from ashes, at most 2000 bottles in a year - it are enough of it, that the nobility: ephemeral smells and tastes do not disappear anywhere even. If want to try in Moscow or in Petersburg, come into wine boutique Grand Cru - Villa dei Misteri there happens often enough, as well as other wines to roots (one and is called - Radici that means roots ) Which Mastroberardino does of the grapes which have been grown up at a foot of Vesuvius.

as to meal, in Italy almost each dish with history. Very tart and sated wine sauce with which in different regions like to cook extremely tasty duck grudki and game, too comes from Ancient Rome. After all wine at storage in amphoras quickly was oxidised, becoming aggressive and rigid, therefore it diluted with water, fresh grape juice and honey. On the basis of this drink did sauce for meat and a red bird which was described by Roman Apikus, the author of the first recipe-book.

something similar I have more recently tried at Veronese restaurant Twelve apostles . And any more was not surprised to that, as a building 12 Apostoli - all the same model of simultaneously existing worlds: From a fine hall in the XVIII-th century house you go down in a wine cellar, and it appears a medieval chapel, and from it there is an exit on the old Roman road hidden underground with well remained fragments of the house of the beginning of III century of our era. Sauce at restaurant prepare from Amarone the well-known Italian red wine from late zaizjumlennogo grapes which so was loved by ancient Roman wine makers, but also from other qualitative corpulent wine it turns out it is tasty. nedeshevo, of course, but quickly, simply and magnificently.

an oven at once we put on 180 degrees, and on a plate on small fire we heat up a frying pan with a thick bottom. In the meantime we do on duck grudkah from a skin small cuts in the form of a lattice so that not to pierce meat. We strew a skin a mix svezhepomolotogo pepper and large salt. We spread grudki on a frying pan (it it is possible to grease slightly with olive oil) a skin downwards. We fry 6 - 7 minutes while all hypodermic fat will not flow out, the skin will not char, and meat will not brighten approximately to the middle. We overturn on other party and we fry even 2 minutes. We merge all fat (I do not throw out it, I filter and then I use for konfi), we add a wine half-glass, we increase fire and quickly we lead up to boiling. Then we put in an oven of minutes on 6 - 7 (grudki are ready if at piercing by a toothpick from them blood does not flow, thus inside meat should remain pink), and before cutting by all means we give to have a rest under a cover. While grudki reach, we do sauce. In butter on slow fire of minute three we weary small cut onions - shalot to slightly golden colour, we add the crushed garlic and thyme leaves, we weary still to steam of minutes. We increase fire and we add at first balsam vinegar, then other wine, remained on a frying pan it is wine - meat juice and medical On Apikusu, this sauce it is necessary to add some salt garumom - while the precisely not restored fish sauce of antiquity. It is considered that partly it can replace Vietnamese to us pla, but it salty enough and sharp so I advise to operate carefully, adding on a tea spoon. And still: it is known that antique wine sauces were very dense. If do not want long uvarivat, at once strew shalot a table spoon of a flour.

represent, with what celebration you will cut now duck grudki on a diagonal, will sauce, will decorate with mint leaflets, put nearby a chunk of the crackling roasted bread and take out to visitors with wine Mastroberardino : here supposedly the message from Ancient Rome. As our poet drawlingly spoke: on light of death is not present, everything are immortal, all is immortal . For us, can, sounds too, and ardent Italians take literally. I envy them.

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