About one whether a vegetable, whether fruit,which we at all do not condemn for conformism
meal with Sergey Parhomenko
it was necessary to overcome consequences of a cult of personality, to endure an epoch of voluntarism and to wait a stagnation period, then to test on myself consequences of acceleration, reorganisation and democratisation, to bring down the Iron Curtain and the Berlin wall, to dare at liberalisation of the prices and to escape among voucher privatisation, to live till that day, when in domestic gastronomic practice and consequently in our life, modestly, but with advantage has entered avocado.
certainly, the Big Soviet encyclopaedia knew about it and earlier though placed among concepts and the categories far from vital interests and tastes of the Soviet person. A place for “ alligatorovoj pears “ (Persea americana), sorts of evergreen fruit plants of family laurel, was where - that in a border zone between a jungle of a science and bible kushchami, following directly for “ Avogadro number - number of molecules in one pier of any substance... “ and preceding “ to Avraam, Abram - to the mythical ancestor of Jews... “. Business became complicated that from one Soviet edition in another the entry about the avocado wandered, containing a monstrous typing error (on Freud, of course, where without it) which has filtered subsequently and into many Internet sources even more: the plant was called there Persea armeniaca that in transfer from Latin should mean “ a pear Armenian “.
the Gastronomic theory and practice remained into the avocado account in happy ignorance. Though that in it, actually, the happy? Classical “ the Book about tasty and healthy food “ Easily coped with pineapple, an anise, anchovies and argentinoj (not the country, clear business, and seldeobraznoj a small fish named still sometimes serebrjankoj or “ a gold smelt “ that only you do not learn, gospodibozhemoj, once having got already under the ceiling and having opened there dusty volume BSE), but about avocado in it was not words. Fundamental “ Cookery “ 1955 offered four ways of preparation, you see artichokes, but about avocado again - taki gu - gu.
silence Plot (is more exact, ignorance) the first have broken, apparently, Vail with Genis, twice or three times mentioned in the text “ Russian cuisine in exile “ the surprising native of their new native land. Meetings of the Soviet person with a mysterious green pear already then began to happen and face to face - one of them was described by Victor Shenderovich in well-known “ to the Ballad about avocado “ full genuine tenderness and despair. Then in Moscow the first institutions of the American or Mexican profile, with all them takosami, nachosami and other guakamole have opened. And there and susi - bars have come tolpoju, highly bearing the beaters “ California “. And has gone.
meanwhile ordinary avocado remains the phenomenon mysterious and on - to the unique. To begin with it is necessary to realise that at all ordinary of its today`s presence on our counters and tables we were not defined at all definitively with what we deal: with a vegetable or fruit. You here have noticed, for example, that I have never mentioned in present notes of these words? Well, I do not want to be mistaken. Because avocado to all external signs all - taki fruit: Grows on a tree, its plantations alternate with orange and grejpfrutovymi gardens more often and demand more or the less same leaving, blossoms white florets, gives a fruit not with small sunflower seeds, as a tomato, a vegetable marrow or pepper, and with one firm stone, like a peach or a mango... And nevertheless we paternal - that instinctively place it in the category of vegetables and assotsiiruem all - taki is faster with salads, rather than with compotes.
actually we face here a phenomenon of amazing gastronomic conformism. Avocado with ease and readiness is entered in that environment which is offered to it at present, agreeing to be a vegetable among vegetables and fruit in the fruit company.
here test, for example, demonstrative, almost extremist vegetable recipe - salad “ Eleven green “ met to me in the menu of one Californian cafe. (That is, to a word will notice, such that it was possible to press through a finger through a peel) it is necessary to mix cubes of ripe avocado here with the cucumbers cut by means of a knife for cleaning vegetables in the form of a thin flat shaving, the green salad chopped by centimetric ribbons, green young peas, manually nalushchennym from pods, melkorublenymi arrows of green garlic, a coriander, not fried pumpkin sunflower seeds, and to fill green, again - taki, olive oil cold otzhima, shaken up with juice and melkorublenoj a dried peel lajma, green pepper, salt and a ball Japanese vasabi. There will be at you a doubt in the vegetable nature “ the Armenian pear “?
And now arrange alternative experiment: Connect this pear to another, ordinary, any is firmer, viljams, for example, or konferens, having cut both that and another thin plates, flavour that receive, a mix from nut oil, lemon juice, gorchitsy, honey and svezhemolotogo black pepper, slightly salt and cover with transparent petals of a Parma ham or firm smoked Italian shpeka. Know, what at you it has turned out? Alternative classical “ proshutto and melone “. You after all always knew, what syrokopchenaja the ham is remarkably shaded by fruit? Well, and so you also have replaced a traditional melon with a mix of two other fruit. However, you considered till now one of them as a vegetable.
well also what? After all conformism - the phenomenon in a delicatessen admissible and quite salutary. In a delicatessen - yes. And here if to tell an island. However, about what it I? Not here, not here. And not now. Then as - nibud.
Salad “ Eleven green “
Large avocado - 1 piece
Green sheet salad - the big bunch
Long sredneplodnye cucumbers - 2 pieces
Young green peas - a handful
Greens of a coriander - the big bunch
Young green garlic - 2 runaways
not Fried green pumpkin sunflower seeds - 2 items of a spoon
Dried peel green lajma - 2 rather short ribbons
Mix from green olive oil cold otzhima, juice lajma, green pepper, vasabi, salts
For salad “ the Pear alliance “
Large avocados and pears (both those and others can be rather firm) - from calculation on a quarter on the person
Parma ham or tverdokopchenyj Italian shpek - from calculation 50 g on the person
Vinaigrette from nut oil, lemon juice, gorchitsy, honey, svezhemolotogo black pepper, salt