Vinaigrette on - novikovski the Stork with Small Bronnoj and Bujabes on Leninsk
the Restaurant criticism with Darya Tsivinoj
the Rare bird
Arcady Novikov has constructed the the Stork on a place of the well-known Moscow piece of glass, having left in inviolability only naturalistic dolgonosyh birds from metal at an input and demograficheski encouraging name. The effective three-storyed private residence with the big terrace and a spacious flat roof has turned out. On the ground floor the cafe, on the second - restaurant fine dining takes place, the roof will turn to a platform open air in the summer. In total the institution can contain 240 persons. Scope of mister Novikova, as always, amazes. Especially if to consider the price policy the Stork revived from socialist ashes for new life, as if a fantastic bird - a phoenix: in cafe the average account without alcohol makes 60 - 70 c.u., at restaurant - 100 - 120 c.u. without drinks. However, the site completely justifies similar arithmetics - on the Patriarchal ponds will easily be found 200 - 300 persons, all last year expecting occurrence the Stork and at all from - for desires to get posterity, and from - for persevering requirements to have near by a fashionable institution from Novikova. On them and calculation.
cafe the Stork imperceptibly reminds Vogue Cafe, Gallery and Spring . The Same a mix - the menu for the first time published in the Biscuit the same modern eclectic interior, the same fashionable stileobrazujushchaja atmosphere. In a hall of that only it is not added - variegated armchairs and sofas from a skin, a canvas, a velvet, in it is black - it is grey - claret scale; three adjacent zones at different levels - along windows, on a round platform of a bay window and in depth to a hall, are closer to a bar counter; 80 kinds of a tree by which walls, floors and furniture are finished. In spite of the fact that tables are placed very closely, they at all do not disturb each other, as well as visitors whom spaces thanks to the competent organisation feel zashchishchenno and separately. Huge windows - show-windows with a kind on Bronnuju, easy graceful chandeliers with plafonds - hand bells, strict rectangular fixtures and lamp shades, books and photos in niches and on regiments give to an interior house naturalness and ease. Design the Stork Evgenie Mitta was engaged, and has obviously succeeded. The second floor looks more grandiosely - magnificent claret armchairs and - lja baroque very tall light armchairs - a compartment along windows, the big round table in erkernoj to a zone under solar circle of a chandelier from a glass beads, magnificent French windows to a floor, and small open kitchen at an input in a hall, behind the improvised glass screen from the huge transparent vases filled green pamellami. On kitchen head cook Fabritsio Kresli, the native of island of Sardinia predominates. By the way, and opened shortly before the Stork novikovskoe Cafe Rosette the chief heads sardinijsky. And if to remember that in to Gallery and to Spring chiefs Italians, the tendency becomes obvious. The menu of the second floor is completely devoted the Italian classics with unostentatious Japanese impregnations. The ground floor offers much more radical mix created under demands visitors. Style of the eclecticism Here reigns, which Arcady Novikov consistently propagandises some years. What you have ordered - pyshnejshie chicken cutlets (500 rbl.) with mashed potatoes (280 rbl.) or fried dorado with artichokes and a thyme (980 rbl.) - they will appear faultless. Absurdity of their neighbourhood in the menu speaks the one and only word - is tasty. So, the Stork can bring in a beak to the visitors vinaigrette with a herring (350 rbl.) Green leaves with a female quail and trjufelnym oil (580 rbl.), crabs and a herring under a fur coat (580 rbl.), green salad with a fresh garden radish, juicy botargoj and a steam fillet sibasa (680 rbl.), a borsch with sour cream (250 rbl.), risotto with a white truffle and fua - gra (990 rbl.), cutlets from a pike perch (500 rbl.) with a fried potato (280 rbl.), a penalty of a lamb with mustard and spinach (980 rbl.), befstroganov (580 rbl.) and squids with garlic, rukkoloj and tomatoes cherri (780 rbl.) . All it moves on design ware in actual minimalisticheskom a decor. However, if the ware and registration of dishes were others, it would not affect in any way a rating of new restaurant, whose future popularity predetermine as much as possible advanced price, location, lable. Actually, on these three pillars the majority new novikovskih institutions also keeps. a stork did not become an exception.
soup of day
After delikatesnym Italian Chippolino Boris Yaroslavtsev, Alexander Zaturinsky and Anton Wiener have opened French fish Bujabes . As appears from the name, the central place in the menu occupies the well-known fish dish performed by the French chief Liliana Teriona. He prepares also other dishes from fish and gifts of the sea as which considers as the favourite gastronomic theme. Perhaps, the French origin of the chief became the main difference Bujabesa From the other fish restaurants focused on the Italian Mediterranean kitchen. The hall decor too is impregnated by the French colour - owners have brought from Paris the graceful varnished dressers and a sideboard 50 - h years, a transparent support for umbrellas of the end 60 - h. To the Same epoch belongs it is black - a white wall photopanel: radiantly smiling girls - twins in coquettish bathing suits hold two huge big fishes. The same stylish photo, razdobytoe Alexander Zaturinsky, decorates menu folders. In the rest the interior is eclectic - magnificent capitals and intricate moldings, the chubby square column fitted by an orange skin, a wine case from a floor to a ceiling with a ladder, a bar counter finished with a granite and onyx, cosy divannye zones in window niches on manners Vΰνθλθ Three magnificent chandeliers murano with the effective illumination forcing glass to be poured by all colours of a rainbow, a graceful mezzanine with leather white low sofas and transparent design lamp shades from Amsterdam - all looks very expensively and impressively. The interior integral part is made by open kitchen, an aquarium with live oysters, langustami both crabs, and a glacier with fresh fish. On kitchen the slate board on which the chalk deduces every day the price-list hangs.
Lilian Terion stakes on exotic grades of fishes, on ice periodically there is a sea parrot, a barracuda, the emperor, vivano. In plans of the chief - to prepare a fresh piranha. Kazhdodnevno Bujabes offers not less than 15 kinds of fish, among which limanda (210 rbl.), slope wings (240 rbl.), viva (160 rbl.), a measure (280 rbl.) . By the way, viva together with barabulkoj, a sea ruff (he raskas) and a sea cock necessarily moves in bujabese. In Rojjal Bujabes also participates langust or a lobster. And here the broth which serve separately, cooks absolutely from other grades of fishes that did not taste bitter, and moves with a potato, grenkami, cheese and ajoli. Lilian Terion completely denies data that in France bujabes owners of the special certificate which is given out in Marseilles can prepare only. He, for example, studied bujabesu in Nice at the chief of restaurant in whom worked four years, and to this day adheres to a compounding of the teacher. In general, mese Terion is assured that recipes bujabesa as much, how many cooks, and all of them have the right to life. As well eating rules bujabesa can vary depending on a spirit of visitors. To France, as a rule, on this dish in restaurant come all family and eat it, having sent the waiter, independently combining all components and carefully sucking round the fish stones. And in Moscow bujabes traditionally moves with a decoupage. However, at desire it is possible to fill in also fish with a smoking broth from supnitsy, adding grenki, sauce and a potato, or is them vprikusku, or in general separately. Any restrictions dictated by rules of etiquette, for Bujabesa does not exist.
except bujabesa which can be ordered on 2 - 4 persons (6900 rbl.), and royal bujabesa on 2 - 6 persons (8800 rbl.) the chief offers salad from a lobster with leaves romano and rukkoly, a fresh strawberry and a fig (680 rbl.), the huge shrimps fried on a grill with rambutanom (530 rbl.), fried Sakhalin combs under sauce from ripe kumkatov (570 rbl.), sea line and a black cod under sauce karri (1280 rbl.) raskasa, baked on - marselski, with vegetables - a grill (1290 rbl.), langusta under sauce ajoli (920 rbl. for 100) and a lobster in brendi (410 rbl. for 100). And for a dessert - tarte tatin (360 rbl.) and mousse from avocado under marble chocolate (320 rbl.).
the Stork (****)