Rus News Journal

Myths of the extreme East

Vladivostok could become the Russian Hong Kong, but did not become and hardly becomes. However, the Russian Primorski Krai still has a chance to receive which - what dividends and from favourable geography, and from attempts of the federal centre to keep an advanced post on Pacific ocean, and from more reasonable economic policy of local authorities.

from Moscow to Vladivostok - eight and a half hours of the summer, seven time zones. Almost as much, how many to New York. Only in other party. Subconsciously you wait that you will leave the plane, and there all another.

the first impressions discourage. All the same: the same Soviet panel houses, the semibroken roads, moderately chaotic movement - not Bombay, but also not Europe. To easier itself to present that you whether in Smolensk, whether in Voronezh.

then you start to get accustomed, listen, sniff - is not present, all - taki another. Hills, not hills of Central Russian upland and not the Ural relief. Wood are lengthways expensive it is more similar to jungle, subtropics nevertheless. Distinct smack of salt in air - is stronger, than in Peter and Kaliningrad, the ocean has an effect.

it would be possible to be surprised to that cars almost all right-hand drive. But for it you wait - near by Japan, it is a lot of years a city it was fed and it is still fed with import second-hand Japanese . You are surprised More likely, when you see levorulnyj the car. It is ridiculously expensive off-road car, which owner more often either does not count money, or shows participation in elite.

after Moscow with its transport collapse at all at once you realise, how much it is a lot of these cars. On the statistican, in their Primorski Krai almost twice more than in capital, and almost in 2,5 times more than in the country in whole (on one thousand person, certainly).

you Wait that the affinity to China will affect. But on Chinese still it is necessary to look for signboards, and people with mongoloidnym the person appear that almost obrusevshimi Koreans, and even at all the Vietnamese guest workers. However, the Chinese goods in shops like more than in the Central Russia. And should be: to the Chinese border - hour three by the car. And the Chinese restaurants in a city in bulk, on any purse. Not for all tastes, truth: rude northern kitchen, a special delicacy not the different prevails.

the abundance of building garbage, repair - capital and any deliberately decorative is evident. Local residents laugh: One year ago the city in general resembled a zone of operations . In representations of readers of the central mass-media, summit ATES which should pass in Vladivostok in September, associates with building on island Russian. At local - with masshtabnejshim repair of all city and building of two handsome men - bridges.

the Mayor of Vladivostok Igor Pushkarev assures that bridges will open in July, the most part of repair work to the summit too will end. For public bridges are still closed, but for Money have made an exception, during short walk I am convinced: similar, will be in time. The construction superintendent - the guide swears: all is made on modern technologies, will stay long. However, from the bridge us drive: have forgotten to give out helmets, other construction superintendent swears on infringement of safety precautions and frightens of a crazy bolt.

other earth
Sensation that has flown by the half-world, and has got there, gradually disappears and when you start to communicate with vladivostoktsami. And not in that has put, what even habitual to much the Moscow ear at times gives failure in attempts to disassemble a local tongue twister - it seems, these people speak time in ones and a half faster, than, say, uraltsy. More likely remoteness from mother country, pereselencheskaja the culture and economic burdens of last two decades have built up here special character. In particular, it much more enterprising, than at the population in the majority of regions of the country. And in it there is a habit to lean on own forces - not to count on support from the centre. Moscow though a city our, but it is far - businessman Maxim Zhavrid parodies Lenin.

But the main thing, in a head myths one after another start to fall. Their many years purposefully and on nedoumiju were cultivated by politicians, lobbyists and mass-media.

separatism threat. Any supporter of branch of Primorski Krai from Russia, I undersign, it was not possible to find out. Searched everywhere, except psychiatric clinics. Almost the unique person from whom heard that it ostensibly met those, - Moscow whether the lobbyist, whether the PR manager subsisting on small deals because of working out of strategy, custom-made publications in minor editions and still any nonsense.

the Chinese expansion. Direct foreign investments into economy of Primorski Krai are scanty (see the table). The Same situation (minus oil and gas Sakhalin) in all Far East. Local businessmen also would like, that Chineses, Koreans and Japanese were enclosed by money and technologies, but it does not occur. Judging by stories of local businessmen while the relation of the power to business considerably will not change, foreign investments and will not be. In China to open and develop manufacture incommensurably is easier, it is favourable to Chineses to trade with us, but to put in the Far East they simply are afraid, businessman Alexander Generalov is assured.

Klondike. the Sea of possibilities, a heap of natural resources, affinity to the huge market Asian - Pacific region and that is especially important for small-scale business, weight very cheap second-hand industrial and transportno - the building technics from Japan. It would Seem, fish catch, wood bring down, corn - rice - a soya put, minerals dig, the goods there - here carry. If so. To the Russian measures (if not to take the latest years) Primorski Krai - region ordinary. And in comparison with roughly growing China looks so simply zastojno. Vladivostoktsy for which trip to frontier Sujfenhe a commonplace, know it firsthand. For last 20 years thanks to the money spent by Russian this small village has turned to a modern city.

an advanced post on Pacific ocean. Where, I ask, the military ships, sailors and in general great-power power? Is not present it is more, the teacher of Far East federal university kitaist Ivan Zuenko showing to me of beauty and undercover corners of Vladivostok answers. Something is sold on scrap metal, something has decayed, something is deduced on military bases outside the city. Port of Vladivostok for a long time already purely civil.

dislike for Moscow and Muscovites. the Myth that where - that is such thing as moskvofobija, apparently, it is thought up by the citizens never leaving limits of MKAD. Well or snobs and the boors who have got with the charter in another`s monastery. However, the insult to Moscow, more precisely, on the federal authorities in region is. And in a broad sense - that in the beginning 90 - h have actually left region to the mercy of fate, and in narrow - in bolshej parts of conversations the history as in reply to meetings of the protest against increase of duties on second-hand foreign cars against demonstrators have thrown group of the Moscow OMON " sooner or later emerged; the Bison . And in narrower: Why, asked me, in the Kremlin so long suffered on a post of governor Darkina having, to put it mildly, bad reputation in region?

a deep province. As a matter of fact, it is necessary to consider Vladivostok, instead of Khabarovsk as capital of the Far East, - tells one of my interlocutors. - the basic educational, cultural and trading potential of region " Here is concentrated;. I, of course, laugh, trying to count up, how many capitals except Moscow in Russia: northern capital Petersburg, the second capital Kazan, capital of the South of Russia Rostov, capital of Ural Mountains Ekaterinburg. And still is oil and gas mini - capitals Hunts - Mansijsk and Salekhard, olimpijsko - the Black Sea Sochi, volzhsko - automobile Samara... But to Vladivostok there is no at all an epithet provincial is very live, dynamical city. The director of a museum of a name of Arsenyev Victor Shalaj is literally ogoroshivaet me: We spend 200 exhibitions in a year . And many local cafes and even snack bars will be envied by other pathos Moscow restaurants - availability of sea reptiles and mixture of culinary traditions have an effect.

failure ATES. it is already clear that the planned building basically will be finished in time. The shame will not be, local officials speak. However, strain a little, when hear about absolutely Soviet service in hotel the Azimuth (were Vladivostok ) One of the best in a city.

sea gate. It, perhaps, most difficult of myths about Primorski Krai. And, by the way, not the fact that myths. There are many hopes connected by that it is possible to redirect at least a part of trading streams from Asia to Europe, using the Trans-Siberian Railway. To replace sea transportations railway, considerably to accelerate passage of cargoes. Theoretically this idea promises huge incomes for the Russian Railway and set of possibilities for development of manufacture and services round this transport corridor.

local businessmen and a part of experts are adjusted sceptically. In - the first, the Russian Railway all of them time name krivozhd - so they do not accept quality of services of the Russian transport monopoly. In - the second, consider that the present volume of transportations on the Trans-Siberian Railway is close to its maximum throughput, and for increase huge investments and many years are necessary. In - the third, the port of Vladivostok is rather small, locked by a big city, and its services of road.

they are objected by other experts and officials. The mayor of Vladivostok Igor Pushkarev gives a deal how much will unload the railway transfer of a heat supply into gas, after all coal delivery, how much - development of the industry of building materials will stop. Capacities of the Vladivostok ports at all a problem, nearby, for example, much more powerful ports of the Find, at which besides much less restrictions for growth.

growth sources
150 years ago Vladivostok has been based as base military - marine sea fleet. Soon the mode porto has been granted it - ex (duty-free movement of the goods), it has helped to involve the population and commerce in a city, then in a course stolypinskoj reforms the wave of immigrants has come to Primorski Krai from the central regions of the Russian empire. It seemed, a little more, and the city becomes Russian Hong Kong.

1917 this chance has cancelled. When the Soviet power nevertheless has reached the Far East, at Vladivostok, as a matter of fact, there were three functions: the base of the Navy, basic port for northern delivery and transfer for prisoners, sent them further on the north - to Magadan, to Chukotka.

in the beginning 90 - h the Soviet functions have practically disappeared, the city has quickly turned to the trading. Small-scale business was born from shuttle trade with China, import of second-hand foreign cars from Japan and any accompanying stories. However, chances to turn to Hong Kong or Singapore have been missed for a long time. The maximum, than was possible to become, - one of tens minor ports ATR.

As a whole there was a paradoxical situation: Primorski Krai has appeared a depressive enclave in the most dynamical region of a planet. Local experts very much like to spend circles in radius one - two hours to summer, to specify, how many millions persons there live and how many gross national product of the Russian Federation they make. Meanwhile the edge gradually lost the population - not so promptly as, say, the Magadan area, but nevertheless in the Kremlin have understood - a little more, and Russia will definitively lose chance to use benefits from an exit to Pacific ocean, and even region.

this logic also had been dictated the decision to enclose huge means in carrying out of summit ATES on island Russian in September, 2012. The idea in stimulating a development of the city as centre of the international cooperation, and at the same time to kill several more hares: using the infrastructure created in Russian, to make powerful federal university (its rector Vladimir Miklushevsky became recently the governor of edge), to restore municipal economy in Vladivostok, to participate in a competition for attention one of experts, for the mysterious reasons wished to remain anonymous explains.

Vladivostok doubt, whether there was this decision effective. In Russian, except military men, was nothing, very beautiful and very expensive bridge conducts, as a matter of fact, in anywhere. Much more usefully for the city cut up by bays other completed bridge - while anonymous, but, seemingly, it name Churkinsky in honour of area to which it will connect the centre. However to the federal money which has spilt on region are glad are has considerably urged forward industrial growth, has lifted incomes, at least has partly helped to update engineering networks.

federal expenses have provided to edge possibility to pass crisis - 2008 in plus and to show almost Chinese rates of increase of economy in 2010 - 2011, recognise in regional administration. So, the building share in VRP Primorski Krai in 2011 has made 19,5 % (only 4,6 % in 2004-). But means under ATES come to an end, it is necessary to search for new sources of growth. Hypothetically it is a lot of them.

It and realisation with participation of Foreign trade and investment bank of projects of support of monocities of Primorski Krai. And hopes of creation of Corporation of development of Siberia and the Far East, meaning huge investments in an infrastructure. And occurrence of industry essentially new to Primorski Krai - neftegazohimicheskogo klastera that becomes possible after end of building of pipeline VSTO. And shipbuilding revival, building of new shipyards with participation of foreign investors. And development of ports. And - let and illusive - hopes of formation automobile klastera round assembly factory Sollers. And like entered into a phase of realisation the project of creation of a gambling zone near the city of Artem and the airport of Vladivostok. In regional administration hope that sooner or later local casinos will compete to institutions of Macao. The professor of School of economy and management DFU Alexander Abramov is adjusted optimistically.

but, possibly, not less hopes should be connected with razvjazyvaniem hands to local businessmen. At the former governor investments in such, apparently, ideally adapted for small and average business of branch, as agriculture, fish culture, the food-processing industry substantially have been blocked. We will tell, manufacturers of a soya have been compelled to sell to its structures under control to governor Sergey Darkinu, twice more cheaply, than it cost in China. Attempts to put up money in fish culture (including any molluscs) encountered inaccessibility of water resources - the strange picture is as a result observed: hundreds kilometres of the Chinese ocean coast are involved, and Russian - are empty. And the answer to a question why so the habitation why so there is not enough housing construction is expensive, sounds so: the Input - a lemon, an exit - two, such and in luzhkovskoj to Moscow was not .

It is no wonder that in the list of priority problems at the new governor decriminalization of economy of edge and trust restoration between the power and business appear. Local residents, truth, are bent: it is possible to restore that was. But converge that will not be worse as in first weeks Miklushevsky in power to breathe to business like it became easier.