The restaurant criticismIn the last issue “ We “ (We) there was article about restaurant on Ordynka “ At the grandmother “. The author of article has in detail told to readers about the unusual mistress of restaurant, about pleasant atmosphere, about firm “ the Arch “ founded restaurant, about darlings “ grandmother`s “ knickknacks in a hall and almost has told nothing about dishes. Say, what to write, if “ the restaurant criticism “ “ At the grandmother “ yet was not? Certainly, our correspondent DARYA TSIVINA has there and then decided to meet this annoying lack. Today we acquaint you with tiny cosy restaurant on Ordynka.
Judging by the description in “ We “ (the newspaper, of course, instead of at Zamyatin), small restaurant “ At the grandmother “ simply it could be pleasant to me. A cosy hall on five little tables, old photos, good ware. Certainly, it is a little strange that my colleague felt “ Itself it is very cosy in an environment... Scattered on a window sill vjazannyh socks “. But whether it is not enough, what it for socks? Perhaps any ethnographic rarity or a theatrical relic... With these thoughts I also have appeared on a short flight of stairs conducting to a door “ Grandmothers “.
Have met me as the present Little Red Riding Hood. Remember, what you usually do, having come on a visit to the grandmother? Certainly, eat. On - to mine, all grandmothers simply pomeshany on this question. Therefore, hardly having seen me on a threshold, the mistress of restaurant “ At the grandmother “ known actress Alla Budnitsky has begun to feed straight off me pies, and its assistant and colleague Svetlana Shvajko has run on kitchen to bake pancakes. I, mechanically chewing hot fried pies with meat, mushrooms, green onions, looked at window sills. That here only was not: both photos, and aaplets, both souvenirs, and gifts. In a small banquet room - “ the Nursery “ - Portraits of small Allochki and Svetochki, pre-revolutionary photos of elegant obedient girls, toys. And any socks. So “ there are on ` We ` “: the mistake left.
when pancakes have appeared in time, we have three together sat down to table, quickly having converged that fifty grammes of tincture on a black currant to anybody from us will not damage. Have drunk for acquaintance and pancakes were accepted to Svetlaniny. By the way, tincture “ At the grandmother “ even it has not time to be drawn, so well goes. Actually, a berry fill in with vodka in June, sugar at all do not add and leave a drink “ to stand “ about New year. The family recipe “ Konchalovki “ to Alla has opened, as you have already guessed, Andron Konchalovsky...
though at restaurant, except Alla and Svetlana, three cooks, both mistresses a lot of time work spend at a plate. At least, while I sat at them on a visit, g - zha Budnitsky have had time to weld soup from sturgeon, and g - zha Shvajko left on kitchen to pelmeni. Under a salty cucumber and a marinaded gherkin (mistresses of restaurant not only salt vegetables, but also grow up them on a summer residence under Zvenigorodom) we drank wonderful tincture, had a snack chubby pancakes and stirred about kitchen, cinema and restaurants.
it is necessary to tell that “ At the grandmother “ prepare not “ on - house “. I at all do not love this expression. After all at anybody at us language will not turn to tell that head cook Potel Chabot or “ veins “ prepares so well so it is tasty, directly “ as houses, at the grandmother “. On - to mine, at the present restaurant of a dish should be especial, such, as you will want, instead of you will prepare at home. And so both Alla, and Svetlana do not abuse “ grandmother`s “ recipes: that posytnee yes ponavaristee, yes it is more than oil, “ And with bread eat, with bread “... All here easy and graceful, even pies and pelmeni. Not to mention grenkah with brains.
as - that reading Giljarovsky, g - zha Budnitsky has come across the description of English club where to each visitor submitted under a vodka wine-glass grenok with brains. Alla has looked through some ancient recipe-books and has found the recipe. On white crisp bread (from the Austrian bakery) gentle beef brains, from above some field mushrooms and a gold scattering crackling suharikov pine in white sauce with cheese and mayonnaise. It is really very tasty. If do not trust me at least Giljarovsky believe.
towards the end of a feast on a table there was a teapot with just made fragrant English Earl Gray. On cranberry mousse - foamy, cool, pink, turned sour - sweet as a summer dawn in village - it was possible to put an end. But still so it would be desirable to try French Blanc Mangee! It “ At the grandmother “ Prepare under the French recipe: a three-layer shaking souffle, shokoladno - tvorozhno - bilberry. And after “ Blan Manzhe “ to leave from - for a table it would not be desirable at all. And we still for a long time sat three together at a cup of tea, stirring... About kitchen, restaurants and cinema.
the restaurant prices “ At the grandmother “ are not so high. Pies with meat stand 250 rbl., as much - pies with mushrooms and pies with onions. Pancakes - 600 rbl. of Grenki with brains - 850 rbl. Pelmeni with oil - 900 rbl. the Herring under a fur coat - 500 rbl. of Sevrjuga fri with mushrooms - 3800 rbl. the Cutlet with French fries - 3000 rbl. Cranberry mousse - 550 rbl. “ Blan - Manzhe “ - 550 rbl. Are available the Crimean wines: the Muscat Koktebel, Bastardo, the Sherry dry and so forth at the price of 6000 rbl. for a bottle. Collection wines " are presented; Massandra “ (1932, 1957, 1969). Service under advanced orders.
the restaurant address: street the Big Ordynka, d. 42. Phone: (095 239 - 14 - 84.