Remember, how still about ten years ago I warned the children against street meal: a pier, do not sit down on penek, do not eat a pie, and that kozlenochkom you will become. In sense you will be ill, you will poison, and even at all drew to their and imagination terrible pictures any shaurmy in which, certainly, hearts creep. And the it is more tasty smells, I spoke to them, the for certain in it more than any infection. For the first time this my relation to street fast food has been shaken in Istanbul. Directly on a market square on spits fried indescribably appetizing kind tolstennye sausages from which there was such aroma that at me in a stomach intolerable hungry gripes have begun. I long went around and taki has dared. To me cut off a piece kolbasiny, have small chopped with a tomato and pepper chilli and have brought on the crackling wafer strewed by red pepper. It as I have learnt later, was well-known Istanbul kokorech zharennye on a spit the mutton giblets drawn by a gut, on taste that, about what speak " mind proest ". Not so - that to all to it trusting, I have furtively washed down the mutton liver not submitted ajranom, and viskarem which just in case, according to the advice of skilled people, carried in a handbag. After that baptism of fire I in streets of Istanbul ate already all successively dolmu, kebaby, even that " dangerous " shavermu has not died, and hungry gripes have not ended with the hepatic. The next year in Marrakesh I laughed at the girl-friend: on the Jam market square - al - Fna where the Big Grub burns with fires of tens zharoven and is smoked by clouds of a fragrant meat incense, she cautiously looked at counters with multi-coloured hills of appetizers and bubnila about the possible adverse conclusion of health officers. However, already in a day all - taki recognised that cheap street tadzhiny in Morocco is more tasty expensive restaurant, and in the city of Essuejra we already together ate greedily simply outstanding sardines who lotochniki prepared on small braziers in dark gates.
ever since I with all passion have fallen in love with street meal. No, at all it not the primitive. Even opposite there is in it any deep truth about the essence of life of people. Here, for example, still 2 years ago in the USA a rank " the Best chief of year " magazine Food And Wine has appropriated to the young Korean Roj Choju who has created in Los - Andzhelese ambulatory street network Kogi BBQ: directly from trucks there is a trade in burgers, wafers tako and burrito in style meksikansko - Korean a fusion with fried pineapples and to a sweet citrus or imbirnym sauce. Ordinary appetizers which you will find in any local institution, turn in gurmanskuju meal both #150; and consumers appreciate it, as well as mobile advertising. When the next parking is found, the message on its place and the menu extends through tvitter and fejsbuk as a result of turn to a carriage are built even prior to the beginning of trade. The technology very similar to those that has helped last Egyptian revolution. However, and that occurs today to street meal too some kind of revolution, and it is conquered too by democracy. Dig Choj has ended the American culinary institute, one of the best in the world of educational institutions where some years successively tonenko cut vegetables and did the French sauces on most that on is traditional bokjuzovskim to technologies. And on the market it has taken out tasty ethnic meal which creatively interpreted also has perfectly earned. It appears, the American dream and to itself is quite live today. In the USA, certainly. In New York, for example, two brothers, sons of the Ukrainian emigrant, have sent not so long ago in gastronomic travel on roads of Manhattan to all senses gold furgonchik Schnitzel and Things (Shnitseli and which - that else). The same as also Roj Choj, Oleg and Eugene Voskobojnikovy have transformed traditional nourishing, but dullish avstro - German meal in gurmansky a fusion far from any poor sausages, which you push in yourself on the move simply to satisfy hunger. " them shnitseli have simply praised me to skies " I have read in one American blog.
and here present: the same was tested by me one week ago any more in New York, and in native Moscow when has tried meal from a space kind of the silver bus " nature Gifts ". It is the new joint project of restaurant Delicatessen, its co-owner and chief Ivan Shishkin and farmer co-operative society LavkaLavka. Occurrence " nature Gifts " At the Moscow gastronomic festivals, including on the feast which has passed in a past week-end of young vegetables, immutably calls simply mad delight of public. And principles of street fast food excite for a long time already Shishkin on gastronomic opening. That, he has explained to me that it is very short way from the manufacturer to the consumer: has prepared, has given also has there and then seen reaction: it turns out, it is the freshest and fair meal on light. According to Ivan, it should be not banal, but enough simple. Therefore he has developed modules for the bus: a sandwich, soup, a ragout and a dessert roll. In a role of last now, for example, act Chinese steam mantu which can be submitted with sweet caramel, and it is possible with karamelizirovannym sauce from pork pashiny. Third of repertoire of world kitchen keeps within a genre of a ragout and at all almost: After all it and French is welded on from a lamb, both chicken karri, and Moroccan tadzhin, and Mexican chilli a game karne.
And it is possible and to transform at all a traditional ragout in present gurmansky a sandwich. Ivan has shown to me as prepares a new position for the bus a sandwich karnitas. The Mexican dish under such name I and itself sometimes do houses. " Karnitas " it is translated from Spanish as " mjastso " that is small slices of meat. Usually big chunk of pork or beef extinguish to such status that it has started to break up to fibres. And then give to meat zakaramelizovatsja that slices left crackling and appetizing, as though fried. Then karnitas usually put in the Mexican wafer with a coriander, a radish, sauce from avocado or any sharp tomato sauce. In Mexico karnitas often sell racing in the most simple snack bars, but he can be met and at expensive restaurants Then to meat by all means add spices, and instead of water extinguish in tea. Only here Shishkin has gone absolutely some other way.
for the sandwich karnitas he has chosen not wafers, and hardly rude round porous bread of own batch and the most juicy piece of beef a stake from a diaphragm, which else name skirt (" a skirt ") Marinaded in sharp chesnochno - lajmovom sauce. To prepare it not hours, and minutes. An onion, as well as meat, it too pickles to relieve of rough sharpness minutes 20 - 30, not longer. Before final cooking it is necessary to grease home-made bread with olive oil and to roast to a crunch on a grill. In the meantime to take a coriander bunch, to separate leaves and to chop. To crush pepper chilli. Meat to get from marinade, to rub off a napkin dry, to grease with olive oil and to fry on a grill, overturning each 20 seconds, to a status medium rare. To cut a diaphragm tape on three pieces and to cut straws across a fibre. And at once together with juice to place in a bowl, to add a marinaded onion with a part of onions marinade, perchik chilli and a coriander. All to mix a hand and slightly to massage. To lay out odorous appetizing weight on even warm toasts yes so that not to lose juice drops. Ah, what, I will tell to you, it is a magnificent dinner!
Well also what, you ask me where to run to try, where there is this magic bus? Alas, except festival days, there is it tightly locked near to one more shishkinskim restaurant Tapa de Comida. It does not turn out to legalise papers Yet on street trade. However, in a city there were other buses, for example " the Burger Vick " Ginza Project in Park Bitter. Well to you to tell? Sell fresh, but quite to itself standard burgers on " any " wadded rolls. Yes we after all with you know, how at all of us is arranged and why big network company to make the way incomparably easier. Well the American dream is not carried out while on domestic soil. Therefore the present Russian patriots go out of doors. Including that we when - nibud had a present street meal. Well and all other present, of course, too.
www. vkusitsvet. ru
the Sandwich karnitas
1 Stake from a thin diaphragm (skirt) (300 g, 3 pieces)
2 Home-made bread (3 pieces)
3 Coriander (25)
4 Pepper chilli (1 piece)
5 Onion red (1 piece, nearby 120)
Marinade for meat
1 Soya sauce (200 ml)
2 Lajmovyj fresh (50 ml)
3 Paprika (50
4 Chiles (7)
5 Black pepper ground (15)
6 Oregano (3)
7 Zira (35)
8 Garlic (4 zubchika to crush)
9 Sugar (20)
Marinade for an onion
1 Lemon fresh (2 items of a spoon)
2 Salt (1 item a spoon)
3 Sugar (1,5 items of a spoon)