Rus News Journal

The policy of high kitchen


the Gastronomic twenty gathers for the summit of times in a year. What discuss, having gathered, cooks of kings and presidents? " a spark " searched for the answer in a lobby of unique action

" And me a word " the cook " it is pleasant, Vakhtang Abushidi, and #150 speaks; I also am the cook. Who else? " it seems To me that to it approaches " more; the chief ". So, from the French language, name cooks all over the world. The chief of the Kremlin! The young, beautiful main Kremlin cook.

to Vakhtang of 26 years, it the most young of the Big twenty of cooks which has gathered past week at first in Berlin, and then in Paris. They cooks of presidents and royal surnames, also accept them at the highest level: angel Merkel, Francois Olland. And in a break silent summer pleasures, walk on a bicycle across Berlin and by ships after Hay. Cooks too need to dump stress, at them work is heavier, than at any politician. Try, cover a banquet on one thousand persons for 40 minutes. And that without a uniform error, and that the international scandal. So on kitchens usually discipline, as in army, and conditions, as before fight. Here and on celebrations they sit as generals directly, strictly, bearing you will admire, calmness you feel that have got used to stresses. At cooks and uniforms as at military men, only the epaulet is not present, but on a collar and on a chest the State Emblem. At everyone the: France, Germany, Russia, the USA, Great Britain, China... The big twenty.

the head of association Club des Chefs des Chefs (Club of chiefs of heads of the states) Zhil Bragar presses in speech that chiefs both #150; the Ambassadors Plenipotentiary and representatives of the countries. Bragar not the cook, and their couturier, earlier to it posessed the company on tailoring of cook jackets and caps. 35 years ago he has sewed the first smart jacket with French trikolorom for Polja Bokjuza and then has decided to find a format to gather presidential cooks. Speaks, it is necessary as - that to note their work, represent, each time to be accustomed to the new president and its tastes? Here, for example, Kristeta Komerford, began at Clinton, then was the cook at Bush, and now at Obama. Michel Obama has spread about the White house a kitchen garden, and the presidential couple eats exclusively own vegetables. A kitchen garden become fast can organic, under the law it is necessary, that 5 years the earth stood without chemical fertilizers. Also remained - that of all year, and suddenly will not choose? What then becomes with a kitchen garden?

the wide experience at Frenchman Bernard Vossiona: this year he marks 40 - letie open-cast mines in the Elisejsky palace, Francois Olland its sixth president. Speaks, each time should be begun with zero, to meet the president, to discuss, what allergies at it and tastes to arrange the menu. And the wife of the president, of course, makes amendments. However, the French chief has used a word not " the wife " epouse, and compagne it can be both the wife, and the girlfriend, all after all know that Francois Olland single. The French journalists immediately on it attack: and what it, what loves, how behaves with the personnel? It is interesting to all, the president - that the newcomer. " presidents leave, and cooks remain " philosophically notices Zhil Bragar.

I too ask Vakhtang as he is accustomed to the new president. Responds: " Yes after all I with it already worked ". In Russia, apparently, again all to the contrary cooks leave, and presidents come back. The former head cook, Zherom Rigo, managing the Kremlin banquets at Dmitry Medvedev, has left on island of Sacred Mauritius. The climate has decided to replace, explains Bragar.

I try to achieve from Vakhtang as flavouring habits have exchanged in the Kremlin. But it does not give out secrets, only says that at Putin a bias in more Russian cuisine, and at Medvedev in the European. But we, speaks, we try to present Russian cuisine on the international receptions with the European giving. A borsch we represent as a cream - soup from a beet that it was pleasant to visitors. It seems that here cardinal distinctions between two presidents was not outlined yet.

on a press - conferences it was found out that the Russian presidential kitchen has and more one difference. It is interesting to all, as business with security is and a leah exist, as during former times, tasters, on a case of poisons and heavy metals. Chiefs laugh: yes we also are the first tasters, so if that... Conversation is entered again by Bragar explains that something similar to this post is only in the Kremlin. Speaks: " I saw, when we were accepted last year by president Medvedev, together with the cook in the course of cooking at its each stage the doctor participates, he and watches security ". The cook of its majesty of the queen of Great Britain corrects: " Well, when to us Bush came, too all time for kitchen two febeerovtsa stood and asked, as yes that. And during usual time no, happens nobody, we consult. The main thing that products were fresh... "

now at the British chief it is a lot of work the Olympic Games start, receptions have gone, it is necessary to be up to standard. Therefore the main cook of the Buckingham palace, it having noted at the gastronomic summit, has departed to London, and to represent Britain there was Anton Mozimann responsible for banquets. It it managed a table on wedding at Kate and William, he and now feeds them. Tells that the young princess likes to glance to it on kitchen, sometimes asks: remarkable sauce, but a leah is impossible less butters? Cares of a figure...

most of all heads of the foreign states should be received to the cook of United Nations Darilu Shembeku. The Japanese journalist asks it a tricky question: " And how you manage to do such politically correct dishes to please? " it is not known, it would be possible to answer a similar question to the Secretary general of the United Nations. But Gave finds a way out, tells, how religious restrictions in food are considered in the menu: " we have a special calendar of religious feasts of all countries. And on a broader scale, we try to submit neutral dishes jagnjatinu with vegetable marrows. More than green salads... " nearby Crazy Kadosh, the chief of the president of Israel Shimona Peres approvingly nods. During a cocktail we manage to get to talking. Kadosh tells that some years arranges the general dinners for the Israeli and Palestinian children in children`s camps. It, apparently, the most far-sighted step among all attempts of the resolution of conflict children will grow, can, will remember that together divided bread. " I and the command of cooks for these dinners type exactly half-and-half, specifies Kadosh, from israelites and Palestinians. Where still they can wear the general uniform, how not on this kitchen? "

habits and customs of other heads of the states to cooks need to be foreknown. Therefore they also meet once a year, and still exchange calls, on a case of official visits. The main thing, Bernard Vossion explains me, the nobility not that visitors love, and what they hate. And behind a table, by the way, important things dare. Or to the contrary, there are delicate negotiations, and you it something such, with absolutely divine taste. You look, and have gone on difficult conditions. Far behind an example it is not necessary to go yesterday at a meeting with the French president Angela Merkel has thanked chiefs: " Thanks to you the meeting was productive ".

Not without reason the delicatessen and diplomacy go hand in hand two ancient French arts. Talejran, the French Minister for Foreign Affairs at whom only a mode did not minister and spoke: " Give me the good cook, I to you will conclude the good contract ". Said that the unique owner, to which Talejran never changed, it is sauce. But also the cook at it was the best in the world both #150; head and the founder of all French cuisine of Antonin Karem. At first ministered at Napoleon, but Napoleon was absolutely indifferent to meal, and in hands at Talejrana Brown became the powerful weapon. After battle at Waterloo it has carried Karema on the Viennese congress, moreover has grasped butts with shambertenom. And in general it was possible to be turned out the lost France not too badly from own defeat... And when the Parisian senators should sign I delivery of capital with Alexander, again it was necessary to be converted to Brown. Senators for a shameful supper for them with the Russian tsar have refused to come, Talejran has employed rjazhenyh. The French chronicles remember that table till now...

each other cooks tell that their presidents, and outside of presidential palaces and #150 prefer behind a table; not so like to open secrets. I ask: and what here such confidential? It that, security measures? Yes is not present, Vossion, matter is not in security responds. Simply president it too the person. In due time one French newspaper has written that Jacque Chirac loves the veal head. Since then in any village and in any city where it went with visits, to it only the veal head and submitted. From kind, of course, promptings. Only the president where - nibud goes on a visit almost every day, here and try though month is same, though a strawberry with chocolate!

but all of us - taki try vyznat any palace secrets that who loves. And here it is already known that Sarkozy madly loved chocolate (though who does not love it, Bernard Vossion smiles), Bush abhored a broccoli, and Francois Olland hates artichokes. " but all of us equally submit them, the chief of the Elisejsky palace, and #150 strictly speaks; can be, visitors, to the contrary, adore them! What to us now, such vegetable to refuse? " democracy in force: the president not the monarch, and the selected person. Let suffers what wanted by the people. Vossion underlines: it ministers not to the person, and the state post. Though at the president and the family is, at wives, children and relatives too the preferences.

Elen Darroz, the well-known woman - the cook with mishlenovskimi stars, told to me that once prepared in the Elisejsky palace as the invited cook, and to it in kitchen the madam Chirac has gone down: " a leah will tell the recipe of this chicken? " Francois Olland has come to kitchen premises in the same day when for the first time has transpassed a threshold of the Elisejsky palace. And its girlfriend Valeri Trieveler began to give advice on menu drawing up personally. I ask Vakhtang Abushidi that wives and children of our presidents eat. Alas, the Kremlin chief to service of private dinners - breakfasts - suppers is not admitted. Who there submits, it not in a course. Itself obuzhivaet only banquets and receptions, as well as its predecessor. However, across Russia with Putin goes. Here in Sochi often happens, there too receptions are arranged.

the Canadian chief is more frank. Rejoices to acquaintance: " My surname Vasilko, I the Ukrainian! " Itself was born already in Canada, in the middle of 70 - h, and parents, both the father and mother, immigrants, from - under Kiev. Neither on - russki, nor on - ukrainski Tim Vasilko does not speak, but a word " vareniki " says without accent. " my prime minister - the minister very much respects and vareniki, both pies, also smiles broadly, yes who does not love them? " on Timovoj it is visible to a smile that he too loves the trade. And what in her - the most interesting? " and that you feel a history part! Before our eyes such things occur, such meetings, more often destinies of the world change, and our problem so to make all, that well all has passed and was resolved. Here and children are proud of me, I for them work, and ministered at private restaurant, and it, of course, absolutely another earlier... "

all other cooks too consider that are involved in history, from Tima, at which all career still ahead, to Rozalin Makbrajd. It ministers 33 years in a presidential palace of Ireland. " to us recently Elizabeth II came, Rozalin, and #150 speaks; and this first occurrence of the British monarch in Irish land for last hundred years. All country was stirred, and as I was nervous, can present to myself... I in a thick of events! "

Rozalin was necessary to work with the president - the woman twice. Also what, a leah is a difference? " there is, of course, a woman more it penetrates into kitchen, to it rodnee. And the woman, probably, everywhere it is heavier " Rozalin sighs, on kitchen after all too the female share is hard. On a broader scale, cooks concern the presidents and princes a little bit as to children, care of them. This one more difference of the presidential cook from any another, let and the most star, here care of health of the client not abstraction, " the client " quite the concrete person. Moreover the president constantly eats on banquets, and how without house meal? Here also it is necessary to make this banquet food as more as possible house, simple, healthy. I ask Tima Vasilko, a leah wants to write it the book of recipes of health for businessmen obviously there would be a best seller. Tim laughs: such book about healthy food already is, it this year has let out Michel Obama. About health really most of all tells Kristeta Komerford, the head cook of the White house. And it managed in the book to participate some recipes from a presidential kitchen garden are made with its participation.

the house kitchen garden is not only at Obama. Monaksky prince Albert too receives vegetables from own economy its kitchen for hundred percent organic and basically the Mediterranean. Christian Garcia, the chief of its highness, truth, has told that after a marriage of the prince in the menu there were African notes, after all princess Sharlen it come from Southern Africa. To Christian too so it is more interesting. Here, for example, boboti like usual meat flan, but with fresh apricots, karri and almonds. And recently to them there came Nelson Mandela, this visit he never will forget and specially has in view of that thought up a new dessert. Named it " the Star of Africa " in honour of Mandela, of course, but also in memory of the largest diamond found in the South African territory. " I have presented a dessert in the form of a jewel, have prepared it from white chocolate, crimson mousse and the French cookies " madlen " remembers Garcia, such meetings in life need to be marked always how was not to create a new dish? "

the Danish prince too is inclined to gardening and winemaking. In France about a city Cahors wine at it the lock, and it makes own wine. It is not enough about what kitchen presently speak so much, how much about Danish, in Denmark the cook named best in the world, and #150 works; Ren Redzepi. Its kitchen difficult, modern, in it unexpected components of northern flora are used. I ask royal cook Dzhespera Volmera, a leah submits it in a palace experimental dishes. Dzhesper responds that it is very glad that on a modern table products arrive not only from the Mediterranean. Now thanks to the Danish chiefs northern berries have entered into a culinary fashion. Here they with the prince put a celery in a kitchen garden, carrot at them well ascends, and by October apples keep up they squeeze out juice of them. And jam, of course, cook, and on a broader scale love preparations that anything in a royal economy did not vanish. It is visible that Dzhesper is more likely attached to the traditional menu photographs ajfonom a crimson cake. It is carried by the command of the most star cook in the world, Alena Djukassa: reception passes in five-stars hotel Plaza Athenee, where at Djukassa three-stars restaurant. Having photographed, Dzhesper thoughtfully tries a cake. I ask: What do you think of it? " I think that I will take one more! "

you look at cooks and you see behind them their countries. Here Chineses at them not one chief, and at once 30 that on official dinners to present all regionalnye kitchens. And the command at a plate not nearby 30 persons, as at all the others, and 250... Anton Mozimann is similar to the provincial English gentleman, not without extravagance: he one has dared to put on to a working blouse a tie - the butterfly of iridescent colour. Kristeta Komerford speaks not worse the official representative of the White house: the perfected, strict phrases, without emotions, but on business.

and at us the tradition too is traced. And truth, ask me the cook, what the grandfather of president Putin was the cook at Lenin?

and jokes at all cooks the. Anton Mozimann remembers Thatcher. Miner`s strikes, in the country a deep economic crisis. And here Mitterand on a visit, the connoisseur and the fan of kitchen. " I then so tried and was highly appreciated from president Mitterand. From the madam Thatcher too: what you, Anton, have submitted to us tasty meat, she has told. Has then kept silent and has added: and what expensive... "

I Ask, as become chiefs. Someone, as Vakhtang, grows on a workplace it has come to the Kremlin in 20 years, worked as a sou - the chief under the direction of the Frenchman. Someone as Vasilko, took and have invited one fine day in a palace. But check on moral stability, of course, pass all. To enter into the power difficultly, and here to leave? I ask Vakhtang: want, how Vossion, to spend at presidents of 40 years? " no that you, he speaks, to me the business, small. I, probably, soon again will go to study. At me one higher education is, on management of human resources. And now I want agricultural to receive. That from the raw materials to prepare... At us after all the products, kitchen gardens, as in Monaco, no. And I would open brewery... "