Twice in the same fashion
the Couturier of the past again in a fashion. Old fashionable brands find the second life
Fashionable brands 0; as wine, gain in strength in the course of time. At the same time a fashion the product perishable and if the stamp drops out of hands of the artist, threatens it if not oblivion, museum vegetation.
a tendency of this summer new life of old brands. The power of ideas of great couturiers of the past so is strong, what exactly at them operators of the fashionable market search for inspiration during heavy crisis times.
it`s in the bag
July Week of haute couture in Paris this year had obvious Italian accent. All only also told about the opening of show dated for it - ruma Elzy Skjaparelli in its historical workshop on the Vandomsky area. Millionaire Diego Della Valle who has undertaken revival is no time the well-known stamp, arranged on the occasion of its start a party. And if to put in one number a name of owner Tod`s, Hogan, Fay e Roger Vivier and different other business and zakonodatelnitsy the Parisian fashion 30 - 50 - h years of the last century, already success, it is possible to tell, in a hat. And a hat exclusive and extravagant what them saw Elza Skjaparelli. But if it is possible to limit representation of Diego Della Valle to several words that it shows a phenomenon named at us socially - the responsible businessman, Elza Skjaparelli competing in due time with Coco Chanel, merits the separate story.
Elza Skjaparelli was born in 1890 in the Roman aristocratic family and has spent the youth in Italy, than interest to her of Italian Della Valle partially speaks. However, its creative nature was showed in Paris where it has appeared in 1924 after unsuccessful marriage and where fashion designer Pol Puare already shining in those days (Russians know it on a last year`s exhibition in Museums of the Moscow Kremlin " About " ) has advised to it to be engaged in fashionable business. In Paris those times there was an expanse for dressmakers, however Elza Skjaparelli was the first designer who has destroyed a barrier between a fashion and art. Elza was on friendly terms and co-operated with outstanding artists of that time. El Salvador Distances threw up to it ideas and participated in their realisation. These are Distances has created the sketch of glorified Skjaparelli Lobster dress, and also has prompted idea tajera with pockets in the form of cupboard jashchichkov. The hat immortalised by the great Spaniard in the form of a shoe in which his wife Gala is represented on many portraits, left masterful Elzy Skjaparelli. It is known that the fashion designer with pleasure and itself carried the extravagant product in which together with Galoj and without it it is embodied in many photos of that period. Except a shoe of Elza did hats in the form of phone, a beefsteak and other improbable for carrying on a head of subjects, but the Parisian bohemia they were pleasant. For those times the bottle of its first spirits executed in the form of a copy of a bust of scandalous American actress Mej West was very courageous also.
but artists and actors, the main clients and partners of the fashion designer, only supported its daring ideas. Diego Dzhakometti (the sculptor, the well-known Alfredo Dzhakometti`s brother) was engaged in design of studio Elzy, artist Jacque Hugo has made for its collection of a button in the form of small sculptures, and Lui Aragon and Elza Triole have made for it a necklace of aspirin tablets.
many from innovative in those days ideas of Skjaparelli today are disassembled on citations and have entered into obligatory luggage of modern fashion designers. It of the first began to use prints of newspaper articles, as well as prints of images of animals and plants. Fashionable nowadays the attrition too is invented by it. Feathers, pastes, beads all it too entered into modelling repertoire of Elzy Skjaparelli.
At the same time " the anarchist from a suite " As its friends named, it has appeared the perfect manager. It was one of the first fashion designers who have understood commercial necessity of collections pret - and - port. It began the first to arrange thematic and seasonal displays of collections. However, these ideas in 30 - e already soared years in air, and in their realisation she walked in step with Coco Chanel which yet was not in those days an icon, and only the colleague and the basic competitor Elzy Skjaparelli. It is known that these two zakonodatelnitsy style were in constant rivalry. All of them time compared, though from ours it is far obviously that everyone had a ambry. If Chanel differed minimalism Skjaparelli blazed excesses. " unlike Elzy Skjaparelli which are under the influence of surrealists and style of Puare, Chanel gravitated to present tendencies " historians of the house Chanel admit. Artistic style of Skjaparelli raised its creations over a pragmatism of Koko. Probably, therefore in 1934 Time has put the Italian on the first place on a fashionable Olympus, having preferred to its Frenchwoman.
and still today about Great Koko does not know unless the child. About it write books, shoot films, exhibitions of its collections call huge interest (to remember at least that that was some years ago in the Pushkin museum). Stamp lives and fine is on sale, and if fashionable for all times the firm suit from Chanel not to everyone on a pocket, is not present the woman never trying a perfumery line of Chanel. And here Elze Skjaparelli remember unless professionals of a fashion. But the same professionals know that losing popularity all post-war years of mark Chanel would sink at Summer after death of its foundress, do not pick up it in 80 - e Karl Lagerfeld and do not inhale it in it the second life in the form of ideas and the finance.
but it is better late, than never. Elza Skjaparelli at last - that has waited Pigmaliona. Diego Della Valle has got the rights to a brand in 2007, and all this time has left for preparatory and research works.
on a question, what for it needed to spend effort for returning to life of the half-forgotten stamp, the businessman long told " to the Spark " that in its fashionable empire shortage of a female hand, that is a female luxury brand was supposedly felt. And has then smiled and has exhaled: " Simply in its aura a key to success ". So blood system Skjaparelli Della Valle feeds the uniform organism working both on the stamp, and on business.
according to the new owner of a brand, its project " does not pursue momentary commercial objectives " the businessman puts on " quality and art " at corresponding " material and time expenses ". To General public suggest to remember the old stamp with taste and scope. In the spring in nju - jorkskom Metropolitan Museum the exhibition " has been developed; Skjaparelli and Prada: impossible dialogues ". In an exposition the works Miuchchi Prada cast by a creative heritage of Skjaparelli have been exposed.
According to Diego Della Valle, about a competition to Prada speech did not go, but the exhibition, undoubtedly, has accelerated start " the project of Skjap " as was the indirect demonstration of interest to the stamp. Work on new fashion house Schiaparelli goes at full speed. The name of its general director is already named. It appoints Camilla Skjavone, the former brand - the manager of department of perfumery L`Oreal Paris. New Skjaparelli promise to show to public already on winter Week of a fashion. The special attention in a collection will be given accessories, perfumery, cosmetics and a number of complete sets pret - and - port. Now all guess, whom Diego Della Valle will choose on fast of the creative director. To thicket of others name John Galliano expelled from Dior in last year under sad circumstances name. In it there would be a certain intrigue it is known, how did not love Elza Christian Dior who has forced out in 50 - e its years from a fashionable Olympus when tastes of post-war public have changed so that Elze was necessary to close the business.
except scandalous Galliano often name the Italian designer Rudolfo Paglialunga holding fast art - directors of updated fashion house Vionnet. To life of this stamp since 2009 the fellow-heir of Italian textile empire Marzotto Group of Matteo Marzotto is engaged in returning.
Opened the studio in 1912 and the dressing Marlene Dietrich and Gretu Garbo, Madeleine Vionne applies what it, instead of Coco Chanel as it is considered, has cleaned a corset from female clothes. Besides, Vionne has invented a cut on slanting thanks to which the female figure looks more extended and thin.
All it has not prevented a nice brand to appear forgotten more than on half a century while it was reached by hands, and the main thing, the finance of Marzotto. Invited by it for a role art - directors Paglialunga has excellent coped with a problem today dresses Vionnet again are on sale in the most fashionable and respectable boutiques of the world, such as Banner and Antonia in Milan, Colette in Paris, Harvey Nichols and Browns, and also Moscow TSUMe and sankt - Petersburg Babochka Gallery. Now fashionable magazines guess, leah Diego Della Valle will be possible to entice to itself of it already having experience of resuscitation of brands of the designer.
a pyjamas to palaces
Even more abrupt route at there is no time brilliant, and now half-forgotten stamp Irene Galitzine. At least because its foundress, Irina Golitsyn, our compatriot who has been carried away to Italy by a revolutionary wind. Her mother, the wife of the White Guard officer of prince Boris Golitsyn, ran from Russia with a two-year daughter on hands through Istanbul to Rome. Emigrant life has transformed the young aristocrat in " self mejd vumen ". However, without bortsovskih qualities fashion house not to construct. There began Irina with podrabotki in well-known in those days studio of sisters of the Fountain. By the way, Elza Skjaparelli too in the beginning of the Parisian life tried to get to fashionable studio Megi Ruff, but it there have not accepted. But, can, it was and to the best Irina missed at cutters of the Fountain.
" the Italian fashion was in those days very backward. All interesting occurred in Paris " she remembered.
Irina Golitsyn on generation is more younger Elzy Skjaparelli and, having gone to capital of France, studied at its colleagues.
" has bought dresses from collections Dior, Givenchy, Chanel. Then some months we with skilled workers unstitched these things, did curves, studied in cut secrets " Irina in the autobiographical book " wrote; From Russia to Russia ".
so in 50 - e years the phenomenon called now by the Italian fashion was created, and our compatriot took in it the most direct part.
Alta moda, the first high-grade collection Irene Galitzine, has appeared in 1959. It has brought to Irina the American award and a rank " the Fashion designer of year ". " the new star " Was born; so The New York Times about this debut has responded. And already in the following, 1960 - the m, the American magazine Vogue has published exclusive photosession of models Irene Galitzine in interiors of Roman palace Doria Pamphilj. As models the Italian aristocrats participated in it girlfriends and clients Irina and, of course, she.
But the present success the palace pyjamas (a palace pyjamas), revolutionary for those times easy brjuchnyj has brought to the fashion designer a suit named so the editor-in-chief American Vogue, legendary Diana Vriland. Brjuchnye suits with label Irene Galizine were on sale in the best shops of the world, they were carried by Greta Garbos and Sofia Loren, Liz Taylor and Klaudia the Cardinal. At Golitsynoj spouses of the Italian presidents, the persian princess Sorajja, the wife of the US president Jacqueline Kennedy who easily stayed on a country house Golitsynoj to Capri began to put on.
imagination " the Russian princess " as its contemporaries called, was shown in the most different areas she thought out scenic suits for Elizabeth Taylor and Klaudii the Cardinal, did courageous collections of bathing suits, created cosmetics. Its collections has got nju - jorksky Metropolitan Museum and Victoria and Albert`s London Museum. Stamp crash in 1987 - m has not been connected neither with shortage of creative ideas of the fashion designer, nor with cooling to it of its clientele. Simply after demise of the husband of Irina, marquis Medici who was engaged in management of fashion house Irene Galitzine, it has appeared that the studio, apartment and the stamp are put by it under gambling-debts. To Irina Borisovne, Russian knjazhne and the Italian marchioness, it was necessary then not only to leave property, but also to stay in the Roman prison Rebibbija. When I have got acquainted with it in the beginning 90 - h, the fashion designer could not show me any dress to rescue collections from the inventory, they should be hidden on friends. She tried to get out itself and searched the help in new Russia where in 1988 so much people have gathered for demonstration of its collection, how much she never saw on the displays. The professional scent and has not refused this time to it, and Golitsyn has made out talent in absolutely still young Igor Chapurine, having invited him to develop for its house a line pret - and - port de a suite. " to the friend and the teacher to Irina Golitsynoj and all Russian emigrants, their courage in exile, their strength of mind and beauty " Chapurin has devoted the collection. It was called " Sevastopol, November of the twentieth " also has brought to the young fashion designer the higher award of association of haute couture " the Gold dummy ". Attempts to open in Moscow boutique Irene Galitzine became. But Russia then itself not too was steady on the legs to substitute a shoulder to the princess.
but in Italy all - taki there were people who have not allowed to stamp Irene Galitzine to disappear. It were no representatives of a powerful clan of Anelli (the owner of concern of Fiat with whom in the best years Irina Golitsyn was amicable) or she dressed descendants of members of parliament, whose wives. Stamp was bought by Alessandra Spaletti, the person always admiring a brand and its foundress. Specially for revival of the stamp she has created company Xines. A magnificent retrospective show of models of Irina Golitsynoj Xines has arranged in the Roman concert hall of Santa Chechilija in 2006, to 90 - letiju the fashion designer. Were there both a palace pyjamas, and magnificent ball dresses, both business suits in total about 70 models which to it managed to be saved up. The exhibition made the big success, on it there were many known people in Italy. Has come there and Irina Borisovna. It already hardly went, but was at full parade. Beautiful farewell as in some its months did not become has turned out. She is buried on the Roman not roman catholic cemetery, nearby to Tatyana Tolstoy`s tomb, the senior and favourite daughter of the great writer from which small Ira took Russian lessons. By the way, lived all life in Italy knjazhna fine told on - russki. Today under stamp Irene Galitzine is issued basically kozhgalantereja bags, belts, wallets. It is difficult to small firm Alessandry Spaletti to compete by possibilities with Diego Della Valle. However prepares for the big leap this summer of mark Irene Galitzine. Now in its workshops work boils. Kapsulnaja, that is limited, collection Irene Galitzine will be shown in already this autumn, and not where - nibud, and in New York opening to a turn of autumn weeks pret - and - port.
However is completely not obligatory to wait, that the nice stamp has sunk into uncertainty then to be engaged in its resuscitation. Many investors pick up a brand while it is still live, but already needs injection of new ideas and bank notes. The French holding Lvmh which Bernard Arno owns, pours in new wine (besides a fashion he is engaged in champagne and cognac) in ancient shoe brand Berluti, whose boutiques are scattered on all the world, including in Moscow. Last year Lvmh took under the control jeweller stamp Bvlgari as the family of Bulgari, is literally with tears leaving independence, could not samostojatelno to provide the further existence of the stamp.
sensational news about purchase of stamp Valentino by private investment fund of Qatar which as write the Italian mass-media, is close to the sultan emirata one of these days has come. The founder marks Valentino Garavani left business as early as 2007, and the fashion house which at one time was in hands at already mentioned Marzotto, obviously needed both investments, and in new ideology.