Rus News Journal

Wine self-determination

Darya Tsivina
Personal " vinokod "
In Moscow the wine restaurant with record-breaking low prices has opened. The author of the project Igor Zibrak the known wine and restaurant critic, the owner of shop - enoteki " Wine academy " considers that such necessity has ripened for a long time. All know that at our restaurants of the price for wine are extraordinary overestimated, and to overpay it would be desirable to nobody. So wine restaurant " for people who consider " namely so formulates itself g - n Zibrak certainly, the project necessary and timely. The effect of the low prices is reached exclusively by means of the smaller surcharge: suppliers Vintage the same, as in the majority of the Moscow restaurants, and the founder of restaurant, in difference, say, from vinotek Grand Cru, is not the negotiator. On the other hand, it is obvious that large restaurant holdings and the companies doing business in Moscow, are not interested absolutely not in reduction of prices, they for the clear reasons accept wine maps with the bottom lath in 50 euros and with top for 800. And to it, it turns out, at all on a hand someone`s dumping prices. I remember, how couple of years back Arthur Sarkisyan (by the way, to itself the supplier), opening restaurant Le Somelier, admitted that is afraid to displease competitors the prices. Igor Zibrak is not afraid, and its position again - taki is rather convincing. Restaurant Vintage calculated on 50 places and located in the heart of deserted Moscow court yard, that is, to put it mildly, not on the first line, does not represent any threat for restaurants - competitors. Nevertheless, hardly having opened, Vintage already collects packed houses on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays so it is necessary to call in advance and to reserve a table. Works a standard rule for the Russian validity while thy audience is estimated in small numbers, can do that want. Including to sell Pinot Grigio 2010 and Chianti 2010 Vespucci for 500 roubles, and Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2006 for 2650 roubles. But try to open only a network of wine bars where wines stand on the average from 450 to 2800 roubles for a bottle (Supertuscan and a Bordeaux, certainly, in tens times is more expensive: is in map Vintage even Chateau Margaux 2003 for 116 200 roubles, but it does not do weather) then complexities will begin. Therefore Igor Zibrak works on small audience, but gives all the best for it completely. And, certainly, itself takes pleasure that does. Wines on glasses in Vintage are not present simply because the visitor easily presumes to itself a bottle. As the prices in a map allow the visitor to make own flavouring system of co-ordinates in the course of tasting. At restaurant Vintage conversation with the visitor who does not know, what wine to choose, begins with the most simple and clear questions that you love more: tart or soft, fragrant or muffled, dense or easy. There are people for whom the bouquet is more important, they choose wine " a nose " someone remembers and appreciates poslevkusie, and for someone most important first drink. Proceeding from it the certain vector allowing productively to conduct search also gets out. Certainly, people who well understand fault and perfectly know, that want, too find in Vintage the pleasure from a price proper correlation / qualities. But it is much more important, in my opinion, that Vintage incurs function such " doctors Volkova " making for people unprepared their personal " vinokod " also does it, we will underline once again, for very modest money. The most simple example: young unsophisticated pair comes for a supper. They reserve by a supper two contrast fault, say, Chablis and Pouilly Fume, with their help are defined with the predilections for aroma, tartness, a saturation, poslevkusija white wine as that. And, having come next time, already know where to move further. One more nuance preparation somele. As a matter of fact, main somele Vintage Igor Zibrak who happens in a hall almost every evening, and is better to come into the hands, of course, to it. But also waiters pass in Vintage special preparation, to be exact they try wines which sell. It is necessary to tell that one of the main misfortunes Moscow somele it that they know much, but drink very little. For this reason bring down on the visitor squall of recently acquired knowledge, but cannot give short and exact advice what to choose (and if do it, proceeding from the price list, and sometimes and of the personal arrangement with the supplier). In Vintage position of waiters is facilitated also by that, having own impressions of wines which they offer, they operate with very simple menu in which all positions it are clear and clear. On a broader scale, the kitchen in Vintage has exclusively auxiliary character, the menu consists of the most known European dishes executed more or less professionally from rukkoly with karpachcho and goat crude (380 rbl.) and salad with a chicken liver (350 rbl.) to rukkoly with shrimps (450 rbl.) and tartara from a tuna (450 rbl.), from fried fua - gra with a fig and a pear (1200 rbl.) to snails on - burgundski (350 rbl.) and fried sea combs (570 rbl.), from rizotto with ceps (450 rbl.) to a spaghetti with shrimps (390 rbl.), from baked dorado with lemon sauce to a penalty of a lamb (850 rbl.) and a fillet - a minion from marble beef (910 rbl.). But I advise to you to be limited to the Italian meat plate (1200 rbl.) Or a plate of the French cheeses (1000 rbl.), and it is even better a plate of the goat cheeses (1500 rbl.) . For clearness of a vector...

Thai summer
Appeared on place Vassanta " Business cafe Business FM " the seasonal summer project " Ginzy " and the radio with the same name. The most interesting in it the Thai menu from the victualer and culinary specialist Alexander Rappoporta. To tell the truth, at me has first raised the doubts, a leah a leah in the necessary place and during the necessary time there was this time Rappoport. The person who never was in Thailand (in it difficultly to believe, but the fact) and took private lessons from cooks - Thais in New York, the propagandist of the cookbook of Molohovets, the curator kosher restaurant " TSuker " (about it in due time) well what here volume - holes and Thai karri, moreover in an environment of firm logos of business radio station?

However, when - that mister Rappoport has opened the first Pan-Asiatic restaurant " Ginger " On Tver, that where there was an act of terrorism, but destiny of this project, understand, it has appeared not too happy. However let`s look at a situation differently. Vassanta always was a fashionable place in city centre. A footpath to it for a long time protoptana. Means, to this summer restaurant both went, and will go. Thai restaurants with a name in Moscow both was not, and is not present. The kitchen practically is not presented in any way. And Alexander Rappoport, despite all " aggravating " Thai cuisine loves, knows and in every possible way aspires to become its adherent in Moscow. As a matter of fact, on such precisely to the scheme has earned when - that " SHanti " led by Svetlana Kesojan who has wanted and could advance the Vietnamese, Indian and same Thai dishes, trying to make kitchen Jugo - East Asia fashionable. Because in Moscow, alas, all through a fashion. Otherwise you will not survive. Thus, Alexander Rappoport has continued Svetlana Kesojan`s business, but was focused exclusively on Thai cuisine. Thus he, certainly, adapts dishes and leads up them to taste so that the Moscow public has not escaped in tears literally words in dishes new " Business cafe " it is added ten times less pepper, than it is necessary at Thai cooks. And it is necessary for considering. The exception is made only by soups for them it is defined three gradation of a sharpness and at desire it is possible to achieve the most inflammable effect. By the way, volume - holes - kung (390 rbl.) and volume - holes - kha (500 rbl.) key positions in the menu of new cafe, and at me are not present any doubt what exactly on them will go here fashionable Moscow public. Because they from perfect products (two times a week all spices and many vegetables deliver by plane from Thailand) prepare, and the person devoutly loving and appreciating Thai cuisine watches for their authentic and at the same time clear for the Russian eater preparation, and does it with fury mashgiaha. Thanks to what Thai dishes new " Business cafe " bewitch the flavouring clearness and a house cosiness. Notes of a lemon grass, fish sauce to us - pla, galangana and tamarinda seem native and familiar, and Thai pepper, green, yellow and red of which do karri, suddenly open, hiding for a sharpness, especial taste. It is especially good red karri with a duck in compote from lichi (760 rbl.) and green karri with a chicken and a Thai eggplant (530 rbl.) . But in the pressing forward to dialogue of Rappoport goes further away. It weakens and calms public by means of Thai " pastes " filling lingvini veshenkami, shiitake and oyster sauce with chilli and kunzhutom (530 rbl.). He offers tartar from a salmon with a lemon grass and a Thai basil (590 rbl.) . It submits for a dessert fresh fruit from Thailand behind an exception duriana, certainly. And correctly does.

New restaurant Cortile della Luna has Nochi Kabirii some obvious worthiness the own closed court yard (from here and the name) with a parking, a spacious summer verandah with the lilac petunias, located in the same quiet court, and not on - are Moscow quiet atmosphere. The Italian menu the prices, a choice of dishes does not differ from the usual Moscow. The pizza is baked in the furnace directly on a summer verandah and, as well as fokachcha, quite worthy quality, though and dorogovata, from 350 to 520 roubles. But pastes are hardly cheaper, than it was possible to expect: karbonara, a bolognese and arabjata stand on 350 roubles. Both paste, and a pizza most of all reserve in the afternoon actually, during lunch time also it is observed in " the Lunar court yard " The basic flow of the people, especially if to consider that here while is not present some alcohol (as usual, wait the licence). But I advise to come to this modest and absolutely unpretentious restaurant in the evening, namely on Wednesday or Friday when on a summer verandah there is a lady of advanced years with Juliette Maziny`s person, sits down the piano both #150; and the silent Moscow court yard plunging into darkness of summer night, suddenly becomes Italian. Also has put here at all in a pizza, not in paste, and at all in a rich fishing soup with langustom, mussels and fish (750 rbl.), and not in a leg of a kid, tomlennoj in the furnace, with a potato (780 rbl.) Which, of course, too create a certain crape but not in them here all - taki business, and here in this most fragile elderly lady with a pitch bang and scarlet lips which is able so is delightful to play a piano and so is defenceless to smile. Her name is Bela Lvovna Budnitsky. And it it is possible to ask to play something from Nino of the Company. It will not refuse, she willingly plays under demands. And the eternal Italian cinema suddenly will revive on your eyes.

Cortile della Luna (***) Vintage (*** 1 / 2) " Business cafe Business FM " (****)