Rus News Journal

Tartar contention

Natural selection
Next Osteria Galina Duving`s victualer has opened in park Bitter. Specificity of a site has completely defined destiny of this institution and even has introduced notable corrective amendments in initial kontsept. If you were not in park Bitter in this summer hardly at once will understand, about what speech. The matter is that at the height of a summer season the updated park represents an unimaginable congestion of the people who are going for a drive on bicycles and rollers, reclining on the lawns playing table tennis, walking on avenues and having dinner or having supper in the open air. And this public very diverse from the Moscow students and hipsterov to the casual visitors of the capital who have appeared in Moscow in transit. As such state of affairs garantirovanno does successful any point " a public catering " in park, on a place osterii the most simple fast food with sandwiches and jotas - mastiffs quite could prosper. Meanwhile the original format thought up and introduced by Galina Duving still in osterii Uno on Color, means simultaneous work at restaurant of three Italian cooks and the authentic menu. As a result in spacious pavilion with open kitchen, a very tall ceiling under a roof ridge, deal floors and a scaffold where it is possible to approach on rollers, four Italians that for Moscow absolute a record work all day long already: head cook Luchano Koletta, sitsiliets, comes from Syracuse, the chief - pitstsajolo Stefano Prosperini and two sous - the chief Dzhanbattista Sabija and Dzhanluka of the Financial island Arises a question: a leah it was necessary to invite all these cooks that they daily fed one thousand - one and a half visitors Osteria di Parco from Italy? If to consider that in a stream of visitors osterii still the nonresident majority one and a half months ago prevailed, demanding to roast it tartar from beef, having accepted it for crude forcemeat for a cutlet unequivocally is not present. But if to look at how the kitchen osterii today, that, certainly, yes works. Unknown to the Moscow measures the stream of clients for Luchano Koletta has appeared absolutely habitual on beach restaurants of Sicily too serve on 700 - 800, and even 1000 persons for an evening. So to this Luchano it has appeared it is ready. Well and as to dishes they have gradually taken place natural selection, and tartar it is simple samolikvidirovalsja. By the way, the menu is updated weekly, and sometimes and daily by the end of day when the stock of products comes to an end, the Italian cooks start to improvise and prepare dishes from this that remains near at hand, that is work under the standard European scheme. Brusketty (150 - 200 roubles) have saved the positions in spite of the fact that initially many visitors tried to distinguish in them sandwiches. Remained in the menu and veal in lemon sauce (350 rbl.) Truth, lemon juice in it adds Luchano less, than it is necessary, so if you love the present Italian skalopine, ask more sauce. In section of fish dishes it is necessary to pay attention also on rulet from sibasa in kunzhute on a cream from green peas (350 rbl.) and the elementary soup from tomatoes with a basil and olive oil (200 rbl.). The most expensive dishes in the menu talolini from a ragout from a female quail (400 rbl.) and kostoletto from a lamb (500 rbl.) . Pizzas stand from 300 to 450 rbl. That is a price range it has appeared in accuracy such, as in Uno. Also the structure of visitors which not too differs today from audience of Color parkway Besides, has considerably changed: on a verandah the quantity of babies in carriages and bearded young men on rollers, not to mention Italians reads off scale, and on velostojanke to the right of an input some places and #150 always are occupied; bicyclists call in in osteriju on a pizza on carrying out. To trade in alcohol in park it is forbidden, but it does not prevent to bring to visitors wine with itself. In general, full pluralism and democracy. Most pleasant that kontsept osterii, having got on park soil though has changed slightly, but as a result it has appeared even more approached to the Italian prototype. In Osteria di Parco you feel almost that in Italy. Well and if will carry with the waiter, and just as there.

the Chicken in smoking hay
At restaurant Bon has opened a new hall on a roof which before the summer season termination plays a role of a summer verandah then will smoothly pass to an all-the-year-round operation mode. At once we will make a reservation, any relation to Philippe Starck design this glazed with three parties loft with the very tall dome-shaped ceiling sheathed by plywood, has no. Actually, on contrast with the basic hall " the Check " also the shape of the top floor and #150 was formed; many light and air, massive divannye groups with square tables, green plants in the massive tubs, mirror lamps hanging down from a ceiling - spheres look is underlined cheerfully, and starkovskaja a bar counter with silvery chairs of its design this sensation only strengthens. In a new hall as, however, and basically, submit the seasonal menu from Anatoly Kazakova who, by the way, in this season participated in competition - regatta San Pellegrino Cooking Cup where, despite awful seasickness, has prepared original rizotto " the Pizza - stajl " with a mackerel and egg in three structures also has received a praise of Massimo Batturo. For " the Check " Anatoly Kazakov has developed rather elegant menu in which behind simple, familiar names the advanced technologies and flavouring combinations disappear. So, for example, salad " the Mimosa " represents a phalanx of a crab with fondant from the frozen yolk, the fiber passed through a siphon, carrot mashed potatoes with a tarragon, " the earth " from drawn butter with tapiokoj and with chipsom from a violet potato (860 rbl.) . From the Russian farmers Anatoly Kazakov prepares an one-year-old dairy kid of 15 hours in nizkotemperaturnom a mode and submits with buckwheat cereal (1550 rbl.), the farmer chicken fried in duck fat, serves on the heated stones and smoking hay, with a root of a celery and morels (880 rbl.), and a Far East deer pickles in olive oil with fur-tree needles, ginger and limonnikom then submits with hardly podkopchennoj a fur-tree branch and chatni from a quince (1450 rbl.). The Russian berries and vegetables are so effectively integrated into classical dishes. Farfale mashed potatoes from a root pasternaka in a combination to morels and powder from paste miso (520 rbl.) refuel. Duck fillet Barbarie moves with sauce from sea-buckthorn berries (920 rbl.). Sibas, fried on a skin, mashed potatoes from a black currant and beet leaves mangold which unexpectedly successfully supplement each other (710 rbl.) are combined on one plate with a celery root, . And cutlets Pozharsky performed by Kazakova become covered crackling krutonami only from the top party and move with guakamole from green peas and avocado (790 rbl.) . Classical French and Italian school of the chief in a combination to creative experiments on Russian subject have born unexpectedly bright fruits. " the check " it has suddenly appeared among few advanced adherents of new Russian cuisine. So now here it is possible to result foreigners not only " on an interior " but also " on the menu ".

Again together
the Italian head cook Antonio Baratto whom we more recently remembered in connection with 20 - letiem restaurant " the Siren " now heads restaurant kitchen " the Bellini ". The decision of the chief seems more than natural if to consider that operates " the Bellini " victualer Vadim Nikitin who many long years was the permanent director " Sirens " and working, so to say, in a long-term tandem with Antonio Baratto. Now two old co-workers and colleagues have met again at restaurant " the Bellini " which from such union has obviously won. At once it is necessary to tell that, it having appeared again in one sheaf, Vadim Nikitin and Antonio Baratto did not begin to indulge in nostalgic memoirs on the past in " the Bellini " with ward of the new chief there were no significant hits " Sirens " from repertoire of last decades. Old admirers of creativity of Baratto will find out in the menu unless crab cutlets favourite as old as Adam with mashed potatoes (690 rbl.), " the Trio tartar " from sibasa, a salmon and a tuna with perepelinym egg (550 rbl.), ruletiki toretto from a tuna with a stuffing from meat of a crab and soya sauce (600 rbl.) yes a black cod on a grill with caviar from an eggplant and imbirno - soya sauce (1050 rbl.). In other menu Antonio Baratto for " the Bellini " looks it is absolutely original, and in it dishes absolutely simple, " are naturally combined; on potrebu to public " like tomatoes with cedar nuts and a red onion (420 rbl.) minestrone on - rural (350 rbl.) and the veal liver with ceps and mashed potatoes (650 rbl.), both #150; and the dishes obviously created by the chief for self-expression to which it is possible to carry tartar from beef in warm panirovke from the fried nuts, submitted in a kind ruleta, with soya sauce (570 rbl.), the mashed potatoes filled with egg pashot and trjufelnym by butter which moves in a glass jar as hot appetizer (330 rbl.), duck grudku with juicy chatni from a pear (690 rbl.) and the compound desserts served by sauces in transparent flasks on ice semifredo from gorgonzoly with a freshening stuffing from orange candied fruits and sauce sotern (400 rbl.) and jogurtovyj mousse with marinaded fresh fruit without sugar and strawberry sauce (440 rbl.) . By the way, from seasonal fruit Antonio Baratto cooks vkusnejshee jam which is on sale here. " the Bellini " offers also other preparations from the known chief sauce a bolognese (660 rbl.), tomato sauce (330 rbl.), pear chatni (450 rbl.), lecho from the Bulgarian pepper (480 rbl.) and caviar from eggplants (430 rbl.).

the Rating

Osteria di Parco (****)
Bon (****)
" the Bellini " (****)