Rus News Journal

Miracles in a jacket

the Russian market of clothes on 80 % consists of production " kitajlegproma ". And only one segment of the market — a man`s business suit — almost it is completely filled by the Russian manufacturer. The correspondent " tried to comprehend the reasons of this paradox; Money " the Novel Ovchinnikov.
In clothing industry of Russia of new serious players there were no already almost eyelids: youngest of large factories, " the Bolshevik " it is constructed in 1929. It is impossible to tell, however, that this inheritance is absolutely unsuitable to use. Before a heat in the market the branch has received a good gift in 1984 there was a decision of the Central Committee of the CPSU about technical re-equipment of the enterprises of light industry, and by the time of aktsionirovanija (1992) most lucky of them managed to snip off according to the decision the new foreign equipment. For example, on Pskov " to the Slav " Entering into the Leningrad profile association of a name of Volodarsky, in the middle of 80 - h have established the sewing product lines equipped with German, Japanese and Italian machine tools.

the Soviet legacy included 184 garment factories across all Russia. Today it is possible to ascertain that the majority of them was ruined or drags pity existence as their production not in a status to compete to the Chinese import. Behind a small exception to survive and even to achieve certain prosperity it was possible only to those enterprises which specialise on manufacture of a classical man`s suit.

the developer, but a little bit sews
Partly it it is possible to explain accident. So left, what exactly the factories specialising on men`s wear, settled down in perfect historical buildings which were at the beginning the main bait for the investors who have converted a look on sewing branch.

One of the most successful investors in manufacture of the Russian clothes for men eks - the president of the brewing company " Baltic " and eks - head " Olimpstroja " Tajmuraz Bolloev. Its first transaction right after resignations from a post of the head " Baltic " there was a purchase in the end of 2004 in the centre of Petersburg of factory on manufacture of man`s suits FOS - P.Summa sdelki officially was not disclosed, but The transaction at first sight was estimated by experts approximately in $20 million

seemed a little strange. It is clear that from Bolloeva waited for investments: before leaving from " Baltic " it only has received for 1,5 % of its actions not less than $30 million (a market estimation of a package at the moment of transaction closing), and under the informal information from group Carlsberg (the majority shareholder of the enterprise), it is much more. But hardly it so was involved with rather small textile manufacture Turn FOS - P in 2004, according to the company, has made about $20 million Therefore the purchase reasons were called any, and business development stood here on last place. The building of the former sewing association of a name of Volodarsky, and even earlier and #150 was considered as the main incentive motive, of course; the trading house " S.Esders and K.Shejfals " a monument of industrial architecture of the beginning of the last century. It is located literally on border " a gold triangle " at the corner of parallel Neva to the street Pea and quay of the river of the Sink. Really, Tajmuraz Bolloev has deduced factory from the centre, has completely restored and has restored its historical facades, including a huge spike, and recently has opened business - the centre of a class And and appartament - hotel. Moreover, its company BTK is literally on opposite coast of the Sink - development has constructed also a business complex " Bolloev - the centre ".

Factory " The Bolshevik " located in the centre of Moscow in Kalanchevsky street, has drawn attention of investors even earlier. Basically it is no wonder besides a building the factory and in itself was good. The first in the USSR, still in the middle of 80 - h, it has started to do suits on the French curves and to one of the first has passed to the European system of the sizes which considered more nuances of completeness and growth. In 1993 49 % of actions of factory have been exposed on sale. Competition was won by the British company Illingworth Morris Limited. Its head Alan Lewis has promised to factory of the investment at a rate of $5 million current of five years and possibility to make and sell suits under stamp Christian Dior. And it came to pass, truth, between a management of factory and the investor there was a conflict and as a result proceedings competition has been recognised by illegal. Subsequently, as Vladimir Gurov holding fast of the director with that important for enterprise 80 - h confirms years, the state block of shares has been sold for $4,5 million " to friendly structures of the enterprise ". Since then the largest shareholder " Bolsheviks " Vladimir Gurov is considered. In an old building of factory today are tailoring shop to order and shop. Thus in Russia expensive suits, and the bottom price segment otshivaetsja in China are made only.

factory " the Three-mountain manufactory " specialising, truth, not on men`s wear, and on manufacture of fabrics and tailoring of products from textiles, settled down in a historical building near to the White house. In 2002 " Bazel " Oleg Derepaski was bought by a controlling interest of the enterprise and after a while has translated manufacture from Moscow in the city of Gavrilov - Holes of Yaroslavl region more close to the supplier of raw materials, Gavrilov - Jamsky lnokombinatu. In this case, truth, ward of the investor of a state of affairs in profile business has not corrected both #150; actually weaver`s and sewing manufacture is unprofitable till now, and one year ago Deripaska was going to close it.

of a growth window
to Share lot " Three-hills " long time other factories which have received investors - the developers interested first of all in valuable real estate were afraid also. Fears, however, have appeared vain.

Tajmuraz Bolloev successfully develops a sewing direction of the business, having moved it, truth, to less valuable objects of real estate. It is less than a year later after acquisition FOS - P he has bought in Petersburg factory on tailoring of working and special clothes " Work " the sum of transaction is estimated in ridiculous $3 - 5 million Is the enterprise it used actually as an industrial platform. " If we wanted to receive only a building would stop factory, and people would dismiss on houses. Instead I have constructed actually new factory, having enclosed in it 1,5 mlrd roubles " has informed " to Money " Tajmuraz Bolloev.

Both factories have been united on base " Work " the new enterprise named " BTK - groups " (on the initials of the owner), is on suburb of Petersburg. Group specialisation remain man`s suits, but the lion`s share of incomes now to it bring state orders. BTK it was possible to receive podrjady on uniform tailoring, in particular, from the Ministry of Defence, " Aeroflot " the Russian Railway. However, the quantity of the scandals connected with orders, from the point of view of Bolloeva, reduces value of these achievements a little. In due time, after numerous cases of disease, BTK accused of use of a poor-quality heater for tailoring of the winter military form. Besides, military department had legal proceedings with " BTK - groups " concerning failure of term of performance of the order also has seized - taki 6,8 million rbl. Nevertheless for seven years " BTK - groups " it was possible to increase a turn approximately five times: on start was hardly more 600 million, now more than 3 mlrd rbl.

For the Moscow factory " the Bolshevik " red director Vladimir Gurov the investor is not become worse, than professional capitalist Bolloev for Petersburg FOS - P.Eshche in the beginning 2000 - h with suits under an old brand " the Bolshevik " the factory twice advanced competitors on profit, making smaller quantity of production. Today the company makes more than 100 thousand suits a year and operates own network of firm shops them more than 20.

the Largest Russian manufacturers are far from capitals almost 30 % of the market are supervised by two regional factories. From 3,3 million the suits sewed, according to Rosstata, in 2011, more than 600 thousand on the bill Pskov " Slavs " (trade mark Truvor). The second place at the Ivanovo factory " Ajvengo ": 400 thousand suits.

a turn " Slavs " more than 1 mlrd rbl. a year. Thus the company is not fond of building monobrendovyh shops them at it only ten, and the rate does on distribution development. As well as in a case with " the Bolshevik " the co-owner of factory its director Elena Kosenkova who supervises over the enterprise of 30 years. In due time Kosenkova has decided to translate factory to narrow specialisation. Instead of man`s jackets and jerseys the enterprise began to sew only suits under trade mark Truvor.

Costume break
For last 20 years import has occupied 80 % of the market of clothes as a whole. However in a segment of a man`s suit a situation mirror: 80 % of the goods make at us (import basically Chinese). The Home producer support not quite osoznanno: the majority of factories sell the production under foreign brands (or conceived as foreign). According to the research of company HeadHunter made specially for " Money " the majority of the citizens getting suits (63 %), has spent at last purchase to 10 thousand rbl. Thus practically as much respondents (61 %) prefer the western stamps. Experts in marketing of garment factories well feel this small weakness of the consumer and to it are indulgent: Pskov " the Slav " stamp Truvor, at Moscow " represents; Bolsheviks " as the main brands in a high segment are considered Nestor Melagne and youth Clubber.

As to " BTK - groups " she now spends a rebrending. The group gradually refuses use of several brands (such as FOSP, 20 years existing almost, or " Onegin ") Also deduces on the market new btc. This marketing model of Tajmuraz Bolloev has borrowed at itself: " Baltic " at it it was not exchanged for numerous names, and let out, with rare exception, beer under one brand, but at different numbers.

however, one only marketing enviable fluctuation in indicators of a separate segment of the market you will not explain. Except already mentioned successful for many manufacturers of a historical legacy in the form of buildings and the equipment it is necessary to notice that segment production expensive enough, here again technologies appear more important cheap labour. But it is possible to save on designers: it is not necessary to update a lineup two, and even three times a year as it is demanded, for example, by a lady`s wear segment.

perhaps, only " the Bolshevik " has managed to adjust manufacture of suits in China, and that only the cheapest. " at us with China left nothing, The commercial director of the Ivanovo factory " tells; Lantselot " Leonid Bunichev. We placed there trial orders. But completely to supervise manufacture process, there it is necessary to send the person on the PERMANENT RESIDENCE. And volumes of orders should be very big, differently it is not favourable. There are also purely technological complexities. Suits from China come in vacuum packing, it it is necessary to remove, iron out a suit, and then to sew buttons. All it udorozhaet process ".

" Cheapness of labour is the most important in clothes manufacture casual, and with suits history another, the owner of brand Finn Flare Xenia Rjasova confirms. In Russia the average salary of the seamstress already is more than $400, and Chinese receives $300 and sews thus twice more ours. However in manufacture of suits it is more important technologies and a cut, and it on udalenke you will not provide ".

As a result to the enterprises which are engaged in a man`s suit, it was possible to survive not simply, but also to be engaged in upgrade of manufacture the majority of them last years has bought the new equipment. " crisis has suspended process of upgrade of branch, the member of Council of Federation Yury Yablokov heading till 2010 the textile company " specifies; Nordteks ". But to sew suits we already have learnt also the basic part of the market, that is all ekonomklass, have filled with a domestic production ".

Forecasts for the future at manufacturers though also optimistical, but careful. " it seemed to me that will be favourable to unite and agree. And here at everyone the hut with edge. For many actives have appeared more valuably, than business " tells Tajmuraz Bolloev. (We Will notice here that in beer sector of large manufacturers was only five, and here some hundreds, and small.) Anyhow, researches say that with growth of welfare of the population, development business - cultures demand for a man`s suit will increase. However, it is clear and without researches.